rleete

Leeo, are you going to let him get away with a below-the-belt shot like that?

Hey, dalem, don't blame me. I was just quoting the Bard, and you know how verbose he can get. Never just uses one word when he can type a dozen to say the exact same thing. You'd think he was under the same contract as Charles Dickens. But your point is well taken, as that does seem to get to the root of the matter.

I think the correct response is "Croda, You Hopeless Halfwit, If You and Leeo Can't Play Well Together, We're Going to Have To Set Up Third Party Scenarios For You Two". Oh, my mistake, Senachai already said it. The most productive response would be to get Matt of the shiny dome to force these Cesspooligans back in the MBT where they belong. {edit due to Sam addams Lager. You were expecting more?] [ February 17, 2002, 02:18 AM: Message edited by: R_Leete ]

Possibly a SP gun, like a Marder? Are those listed as a gun under kills?

Hate to burst your bubble, Mace , but swishing the swig of beer around your mouth before you swallow it doesn't really count as cleansing the teeth. Just thought I'd clear that up.

<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by Panzer Leader: I kept weathering to a minimum on the 250 and Schwimm. And on the PzIV, I may have gone a little overboard with that Russian dust!<hr></blockquote> Gee, I thought the PzIV was the best one of the bunch. It's hard to be too heavy handed with the mud and grime on combat vehicles. Just be sure to thin the paint a bit, so it doesn't cover up the details. Nice work, keep posting.

Nope, 'twas I, the guilty party. In about my third PBEM, he (Gyrene) decimated my two stugs without a scratch, then proceeded to shoot all my helpless infantry from range with 3 or 4 Sherms. I surrendered early, as it was just a slaughter.

I hit the big 4-0 this year. But judging from some of the other replies, I don't feel so old.

You know you've played too much CM when you spend your free time designing and building your very own AFV. Just because no one else you know has one. And your wife lets you, because at least you aren't playing "that damn game, again"! [ 10-27-2001: Message edited by: R_Leet ]</p>

So, what exactly is the difference between a tank hunter, and a tank destroyer? Are the terms interchangeable? Is it a matter of doctrine? Does it have to do with main weapon and ammo loadouts? Will someone please enlighten me?

I request a cease-fire when it is clear to me that the opponent has won, and it will be a holding action at best. I play for enjoyment of the game, and a loss is a loss. No fun in being trounced. Granted, I have requested C-F, and found that I should have kept going, but that's FOW.

Hey, Joerg, you were the one that insisted on heavy fog. Serves you right, having to chase my "lousy, rusting old Pz IV" all around. I never said I had a Tiger, I just said you'd find out. And you did. Next time you pick heavy fog, I will get a Tiger, just to mess with your head. I did just finished a game where I saw a Stug III, and it turned out to be a Hetzer. This in clear dry conditions at short ranges, except using green units. My opponent saw my vanilla Sherman as a M-10 throughout the game. So, evidently experience levels has a profound effect on spotting and identifying units.

As someone who does 3D modeling for a living, I think you've done a great job. Of course, now you have to model the entire engine, transmission, breech, and other interior details, then give us section views. That should keep you busy!

More updates: I ordered several books, based on the recomendations here and on some of the sites. Thanks to all who contributed. To date, the biggest stumbling block is how to get fully proportional speed control. Right now it's either stop of full power. No, I'm not sure it will be strong enough to take the stresses, but if it doesn't, an inner frame can always be added. Only one way to find out! BTW, anybody out there like to help me with a web page for this?

Commissar, you are welcome to come up to this end of the state and be used as an unpaid laborer! No skills required, just enthusiasm. I already have a Tamiya KT, but it's too small. Unpainted but assembled and it was fun for awhile. The new T1 kit is nice, but way out there in price. I want something big enough to ride on, or preferably in. I'd go for full scale, but the wife has set a limit. Must be built in the garage, out of sight of the neighbors. I've done all the searches I can stand, but most "plans" are 1/35 scale drawings for making plastic models. The tiger1e.com site is great for pics, but I'm hesitant to purchase their plans until I can get a taste of what is included. That Stug is awesome, but he still can't ride it. I will be lucky to have mine turn out half as nice. Okay, updates: the steel subframe idea has been shelved in favor of laminated plywood, reinforced with fiberglass. There probably will still be some steel reinforcing in the floorpan, but the majority of the structure will be wood. Cheap, and easy to work. I have ordered 5 gallons (!) of epoxy, as well as fiberglass matting online. I have picked up 4 sheets of 4x8x1/4" luan plywood, assorted angle braces and hardware. Today I worked out a simple but effective suspension system using galvanized pipe. As soon as I decide on the scale, construction begins! [ 09-17-2001: Message edited by: R_Leet ]

I have embarked upon a project that some will find hopelessly mad, others dumb, and yet others downright silly. I am, in fact, attempting to make my very own scale Tiger I. Something along the lines of a large go-cart for big kids who have never really grown up. This was originally a dream of owning some authentic military vehicle. I know I am not alone in wanting this; how many of you, while playing with your plastic army men, wanted to drive a real tank? C'mon, 'fess up. We all would, at least for a day. Hell, that weasle that BTS has is just what I'm talking about. Lucky bastards. After countless searches, I had given this up due to the outrageous costs of these things. It isn't like you can justify them to the wife as a commuter car. And they aren't exacly common on the local used car lot. As an aside, there is a beautifully restored Hezter in Pennsylvania for only $125,000. Drool. Other tracked AFV's command similar prices, well out of my range. So, I decided if I couldn't buy one, I'd make my own. This project involves making a tubular steel frame, covered in plywood panels. Hey, it doesn't have to withstand bullets, just look good. I chose the Tiger I due to it's relatively straight lines, and face it, it's the coolest looking one. Before any of us knew about sloped armor and penetration tables, we had all seen a Tiger and thought it was the neatest, meanest badass tank. Due to the extreme rarity of Maybach 12 cylinder engines in my neck of the woods, it will be powered by two small (5-8 HP) gas engines. These will be coupled to the drive sprockets via a variable pulley belt drive, as is found on snowmobiles and some atv's. Track links will probably be cut from used tires, reinforced with steel angle. Aircraft cable will be bolted to the links to make a continuous track. Drive sprockets will be made from ATV wheels, with lugs welded on. As many parts as possible will be scrounged from local junkyards. I'm looking to build this on a budget, and functionality will (generally) take precedence over absolute realism. So, here is my quandry. I'd like to make this thing to scale. Somewhere between 1/4 & 1/3, or about 6-8 feet long. I have plenty of pictures of the real thing, but that doesn't convey the measurements. I need more info. Does anyone know of anyplace I can get scale drawings of a Tiger? Specs and dimentions are what I'm looking for. Engineering type drawings would be best. Also, any drawings, technical sketches or information on the suspension, drive sprockets and tracks would be helpful. Failing this, I'm going to take dimensions off a small (1:32?)Tamyia model I built years ago. If anyone has any scale drawings, technical information or detailed pictures my e-mail is in my profile above. If you know of any really good sources, please post. If you are in the upstate New York area, (and are also slightly mad) and would like to help with the construction, e-mail me and we can discuss it. I hope to post pictures of the ongoing and (eventually) completed project.

Schrullenhaft, you give better, faster and more accurate advice than some of the manufacturer's tech support. You are to be aplauded for your fine efforts.

On older MB, the single DIMM must be in the first slot. Try putting the large one in there, and removing the smaller ones. If the first slot is left open, it defaults to settings which may not be compatible with the RAM. Otherwise, it uses the settings reported by the RAM itself.

I couldn't give blood, 'cause they have a minimum time limit based on when you last donated. (I'm due for a call sometime next week.) I felt all guilty, like I was shirking. Heck, just three more times, and I get my 5 gallon pin.

It was called "Sticks and Stones". A pocket game, #11. It is a hoot. I have about a dozen of those. Ogre was my first wargame, and I just rediscovered all the pocket games. Short, fast and easy.

I own both a 7mm Mag (Ruger) and a Garrand M-1 (in pretty rough shape). The recoil of the 7mm is far more than the M-1. Part of the reason may be that the 7mm is bolt action, while the Garrand is semi-auto. Although, that said, I wouldn't want to have to fire either rifle for extended periods. Those soldiers in the PTO or Korea that had to fend off human wave attacks must have felt wounded themselves. I rarely put more than a 2 clips through the M-1 at any one time, because it is punishing.

A muzzle brake is that thing you see on the end of the main gun. It diverts some of the gasses coming out the barrel to the sides, in order to reduce the recoil, resulting in smaller recoil buffers (shock absorbers) inside the turret. Many of the larger main guns have them. Slapdragon is correct. The recoil buffers would have to be rebuilt/replaced sooner if the brake was removed. More maintenance on the rest of the gun and mount might also be required. [ 08-16-2001: Message edited by: R_Leet ]

I just ordered my second copy of CM. Is it gamey of me because I already knew that the CD was stuffed into the middle of the manual?

Hey Mensch. Be sure to save one from Berli for us after I finish spanking you in the current one. Those minis are just what the doctor ordered for a bit of after work fun.

In a few recent PBEM games it became apparent that I could not continue the battles, due to losses. In each of these games, I surrendered. One was a defense where I was being overrun, another two were meeting engagements. In one case, my opponent expressed suprise, not knowing the extent of the damage he had inflicted. My question is this: should I have surrendered? The other option would be to continue fighting, only to be eventually wiped out or for the auto-surrender to kick in. How about a withdrawal. Is it considered unethical to just withdraw off the back edge of the map in order to reduce casualties and captives? Afterall, the opponent eventually wins, just not getting the benefit of casualties to increase the score. I am not a ladder player, and while losing is something I try to avoid, it really makes no difference. Well, it annoys the hell out of me, but I get over it. What is considered the most honorable course of action? While I try to avoid the dreaded "gameyness" label, I play to have fun. To continue a game I have obviously already lost is pointless to me. Should I have continued for the benefit of my opponents, or was I right to have surrendered? Is withdrawal a valid option?