Pvt. Ryan

pcelt, I got a new computer a couple of months ago and I had the same questions. I got the DVD drive because it wasn't much more expensive than the CD-ROM. I figured it was cheaper to get the DVD with the system than have to install one later on (you'd wind up paying for two drives). You never know when DVD will become popular for games. I got the 64MB Ge-Force 2, but I am sure the 32MB would have been fine. I understand that there is a newer version (called the Ultra, I think) that makes better use of the extra memory. I also got the SB Live Value card. I don't know what the difference is between the two cards you mentioned, but just about any quality card would be suitable for gaming. I suppose the the high end cards are useful if you are going to be doing serious sound recording or editing. You probably want your system to be useful for at least a couple of years, so equip it with the harware that will be useful for future games, not just what is out now.

There is an indication of a building's status. One * indicates moderate damage, and two ** indicates get the hell out cause the sucker's gonna go. You can see the status by clicking on the unit inside the building, but I am not sure if there is a way to check an unoccupied building other than with the LOS or move tool.

David, Red Devils was just having some fun. He said it Bevis and Butthead style. Tanaka, for your information, the plural of test is tests. Testes is a part of the male anatomy. English is obviously not your first language, so I am just trying to teach you the proper spelling, not make fun of you. As far as the substance of your question, I have nothing to add because I have never seen a truck in a PBEM, and the only time I tried to use a tank to destroy a truck in a scenario the tank would switch to a target of higher priority rather than shoot at the truck.

This belongs in the FAQ.

You are probably going to get some very helpful technical answers, but to put it simply, I have not seen it happen in my games. The MG42 can take out a vehicle commander, obviously, but it is nowhere near as effective against armor as the .50 cal. machine gun.

Commissar, sorry, I did not read your question carefully enough. However, the serious part of my response should have contained some helpful info. You can use on board mortars to either destroy or torch the building, or at least panic the troops inside. Then you move at least two squads into the building and finish off the occupants. The defenders can only fire at one of your squads, so the other one can lay into the enemy. You may still suffer a couple of casualties, but your losses should be acceptable. It also helps if your sqauds are in C&C.

You'd run out of ammo way before the battle ended. There would have to be some method of resupply.

Solution: Wespe, Hummel, or Priest. In a current PBEM I targeted infantry inside a building with a few 60mm mortars and managed to light the building on fire. That wasn't my intention, but it does clear out the defending infantry rather nicely.

Referring to the book now, here is a summary of what is written: Telling the story of Capt. Cyril Hendry, commander of a group of Funnies On Juno Beach a flail tank reached a huge tank trap and turned aside to let a Sherman carrying a fascine (bundle of logs) move up and drop the fascine into the hole. Then the Sherman started to cross, only to slide down into a deeper hole, evidently caused by a naval shell. The combination tank trap and crater was 60 feet wide. The Captain moved forward with his bridge tank, which had a 30 foot reach. He used the sunken Sherman as a pier and another bridge tank dropped its bridge to reach the other side, also using the Sherman as a pier. Ambrose, in a footnote, explains that the sunken tank was a Churchill with the 26th Assault Engineer Squadron, Royal Engineers, under the command of the 7th Canadian Infantry Brigade. When the tank was lifted out it was placed at a gap in the sand dunes just west of Courseulles as a memorial to all those from Britain and Canada who came to liberate France. I don't know how accurate Ambrose's footnote is, but the rest of the story is the 50 year old recollection of the Canadian Captain.

Commissar, from the description in the book, I think the tank was just immobilized in the soft sand of the crater; the crew probably got out okay.

I was reading in Ambrose's "D-Day" that a Canadian (I think) funny tank sunk into a shell crater as it moved off the beach. Two other funny tanks with bridge sections layed their bridges across the crater using the sunken tank as a piling. Engineers later reinforced the structure and it was used as a bridge until 1976 when the tank was lifted out and placed near the beach as a memorial. I haven't seen the memorial, but I would bet that this is it.

It looks a lot like the hills around Los Angeles in the summer, except it's missing the charred black areas left after a brush fire. Tiger, I bet you could even do a Martian landscape.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Michael emrys: Aren't they those little fish that come up on the beach in SoCal? Michael<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I thought they were the callouses that grew on the bottom of your feet. And bogeys - I thought they were big time Hollywood actors, or maybe a golf term. Those tank designers sure have a sense of humor.

Well, Madmatt, I haven't seen an update at CMHQ tonight, and here you are on the forum. I'll wait 20 minutes and check CMHQ for the update.

crepitis, dry brushing is a technique where you place some paint on the brush and wipe most of it off on a paper towel. Then you brush the raised surfaces of the model so that it leaves small traces of paint. It is usually done with shades of paint lighter than the base color. It creates highlights on the raised surfaces and makes them stand out. It is also used to make it appear as if the base coat of paint has worn off on areas such as grab handles and stepping areas (use a metallic color that simulates the material under the paint - aluminum, steel, etc.) It also is used to apply mud and dust. Another technique is the wash, where you mix a slightly darker shade of paint than the base color and dilute it with thinner (if using enamels). You apply the wash with a brush to the recessed areas of the model to create shadows. By combining these two techniques you can give your model a lot more depth than it would have if you just painted it all one color and applied the decals. Dry rubbing... uh, that is something beyond the scope of scale modelling. And as scoop88 says, Squadron is an excellent source for kits and accessories. I bought most of my kits from them when I actively built models. http://www.Squadron.com/ [This message has been edited by Pvt. Ryan (edited 09-28-2000).]

I would leave it the way it is. If players use the cheap vehicles in an inappropriate manner, that is their problem and they won't have too many willing opponents after a while. I only buy jeeps and light ACs when I have just a few points to spend and I can't find anything else to buy. I'm not sure how the game models a units victory location grabbing ability (VLGA), but the recon vehicles should have less of it so that they can't be used to race ahead to grab victory locations early in the game or during the last few turns. I find that my enemys' units usually take care of my light vehicles if I try to get too bold. That's good enough for me.

The leadership icons are what they are (+1) and the boxes double those qualities (+2). I would list what the leadership qualities are, but there are so many of them (4) that I can't remember what each of them stands for right now.

"Time to rub the trunnions!"

I haven't built any models since I was in high school, but I still have an interest. Building models is not difficult at all, but making them look really good can be a challenge. There are lots of books available that teach modelling techniques, but the best skills are learned by trial and error. A good place to start would be at your local hobby shop. Most have a decent selection, although having visited one recently, I know the prices can be high. Going to a shop gives you a chance to see what kits are available and what accessories (paints, tools, etc.) you can get. I would suggest that you start off with an inexpensive and relatively simple kit that you can cut your teeth on. Most of the models I built as a kid were destined to be blown up with firecrackers or shot at with my BB gun, so the first 100 or so gave me good practice at construction techniques. Eventually I wanted my models to look realistic so I became pretty skilled at painting, detailing, and weathering. The internet is a good source for kits and supplies. Once you become familiar with what kits are available you might want to shop on E-Bay. There are always tons of kits for sale and you can often get a bargain. http://listings.ebay.com/aw/listings/list/all/category1188/index.html The above link is the plastic models section. You can choose what sub-category interests you. I have never purchased anything from the following company, but they seem to have a very nice selection at reasonable prices: http://www.phoenix-model.com/plastic-models.htm If I were you, I would take a trip to my local hobby shop and ask a lot of questions. I am sure they will be happy to answer them. Good luck and have fun.

I have no idea why either. Either no one else knows or it has been dicsussed to death so that no one wants to answer. Once you lose the gun the tank becomes an expensive taxi.

The writer also says that 101st Airborne was flawed because you could lose half your men before the mission got started. I haven't finished the review yet, but realism doesn't appear to be one of his concerns.

I am a PC person, so I don't know about Macs, but I had a similar question recently. Here is the thread: http://www.battlefront.com/discuss/Forum8/HTML/000413.html I love my system and have no problems running CM right out of the box.

Turner has a huge film library, but they only seem to show three movies: Kelly's Heroes, Grease, and Jaws.

The problem with CC3 as I recall was that the armor was too lethal to infantry. A tank could quickly eliminate an infantry unit. CM is much more realistic in this manner, so I imagine that CM2 treat armor vs. infantry much better than CC3 did.

Jake, since you are new, I will explain the bucket thing. Get a metal bucket and cut a slit in it. Then place it over your head. Then have someone hit the bucket with various objects raging from silverware to a baseball bat to simulate armored combat. I am from France. (Not really.)