benpark

Really, that is your response? Okay so I expect you will be able respond with the same diplomacy as bulletpoint did when someone responds to you with things like 
 what a bs, get a clue.
Also wonders me that a guy with 3k posts still has troubles like this.
Using the term snowflake when requested for a little more use of civility isn’t exactly a grown up response.
 

I'm not certain of the particulars of copyright laws other than the USA, but 70 years is the general copyright expiration for photographic images. Much of what you will find will be under "fair use", as the images were made by combat camera men and women working for their various national agencies- the US images will be fair use in that case.
As far as US law is concerned-
Copyright in photography lies with the creator of the image, not a secondary owner. Ownership of a print or negative without having created a work does not constitute any sort of exclusive rights. Copyright transfer/extension is rare, and Disney or Warhol estate level of insane.
Since the people that made the images in question are now most certainly dead, you are generally going to be in the clear (though due diligence as to credit is encouraged). 

Being a retired cop after 29 yrs I was coming for them...I knew what I was doing I can tell you.

This module will indeed fill the maps (and QB maps) out. I’ll say what I can.
Have a look at Aachen (all maps), Stavelot, Noville, Nijmegen, Elst, Ortona, and about half a dozen other CM big maps through other CM titles to see what I bring. MarkEzra is the master of the QB AI plan, and with the other guys kicking stuff in....there will be maps.
Steve also released 2 screenshots that show partials of two of the maps for the module. So, the maps are indeed going to be rounded out.
When the time comes on this module to get the gogogo, and I have the OK, we can give you guys the final list, from which QB maps are made (plus there are generally others that are from scratch QB maps of a smaller size than the masssive ones). And the big maps will of course be included for people to chop up themselves for their own scenarios.

For God's sake man, this is a PG 13 site!  Don't let him get started!

This module will indeed fill the maps (and QB maps) out. I’ll say what I can.
Have a look at Aachen (all maps), Stavelot, Noville, Nijmegen, Elst, Ortona, and about half a dozen other CM big maps through other CM titles to see what I bring. MarkEzra is the master of the QB AI plan, and with the other guys kicking stuff in....there will be maps.
Steve also released 2 screenshots that show partials of two of the maps for the module. So, the maps are indeed going to be rounded out.
When the time comes on this module to get the gogogo, and I have the OK, we can give you guys the final list, from which QB maps are made (plus there are generally others that are from scratch QB maps of a smaller size than the masssive ones). And the big maps will of course be included for people to chop up themselves for their own scenarios.

Some of the best. It's a shame Red Orchestra destroyed itself in favor of graphics and fast paced gameplay.

Spaulding, get your foot off the boat!

Now now, that kind of info has to come from the man behind the curtain.   

Now up at CMMODS III:
http://cmmodsiii.greenasjade.net/?p=3533&preview=true
 

Making historical maps is somewhat challenging, but fun. Fictional is another way to go when you are figuring out how to make certain areas look good and offer game play opportunities (a gentle rise in a hill, etc). I do those (generally ending up as QB maps) when I get tired of doing the historical stuff.
Welcome to the new world of "I need this book for research". Which becomes piles of interesting, wildly specific books.
My own particular order of research (project dependent)- contemporary maps and photographs, personal experience (you have walked the area personally), then to personal contemporary accounts from books, modern day Google Earth and this tool to fill in any mysteries.
I do mainly WW2 stuff, so obviously if the battle is in CMBS, there may be more actual footage of the battle unfolding (chaotic and first person-based as that may be, it can still be informative as to the state of the terrain). This is also true for WW2 stuff, but the chance of finding footage actually from the battle is far more slim.
If I could give myself some advice when I first started with the Editor, I'd say approach things in the following order (will differ, depending on person!):
 
1. Research, accumulate as much information and imagery as possible to understand the action depicted, and the terrain itself.
2. Figure out the map sizing based upon one of the images (from a source like a map or an aerial image). What the purpose of the map is will help determine this as far as sizing. I generally do huge maps, but if you are doing something small/medium, consider adding some "extra" for maneuver if appropriate.
3. Create Editor Overlay(s). I might end up with 5-6 for one map, but that is serious overkill for most projects. I use Photoshop, and will have Layers for every source. Generally any period maps (in their own Layers), any aerial imagery from the period depicted, and then a GE image for any areas that may need clarification. Some of these I mark up if needed for ease of organization. One note- I may consider rotating the map to keep roadways at the correct angle for CM roads. That will save some serious agony later.
4. Create the blank map, sized to the area depicted.
5. Sketch the roads out. I adapt slightly to avoid "see-saw" roads and fences, etc. This is my one general concession to the Game. Engine. As long as you don't deviate too far, things should line up pretty closely with any map you have. If you rotated themap slightly, the road issue should be as minimized as possible given the tools.
6. Next I do heights based upon the heightmap Editor Overlay. I adjust slightly around roads, and often raise them in rural areas by 1. Railways get a bump of 2 sometimes if shown as "raised" on the source map. Check 3D view often, and adjust as needed. This can be time-consuming, but the work pays off if you put it in.
7. Sketch out any fields, forests, swamps or other large swaths of terrain. I have started using one tile of "Dirt" around fields. It seems to look realistic, and also allows me to sketch the fields out, then fill them in and plan it out a bit beforehand. This where you have to start mixing the historical with the creative stuff a bit. The fun stuff.
8. Trees in forests. I use a large mix, depending on the region. Look at GE Street View, and just observe nature to see how a forest grows. Generally smaller scrub, then the larger stuff. But some pine forests start more abruptly. I'm lucky to know a few forestry people, so I ask them weird questions based upon regional growth from time to time. You may find yourself on some obscure Estonian forestry website before you know it.
I only do the areas that I have sketched out with Light Woods or Heavy Woods. Don't feel you have to fill in EVERY tile with a tree. I often mix in tree-less tiles in forested areas with Dirt, Tall Yellow Grass and Red Rocky Ground (and others as needed based upon look and region)
9. Start dropping houses. Google Earth Street View and contemporary images will be helpful here. For CMFB, I think I traveled Stavelot, Noville and the other maps that I am forgetting now in Street View a million times. Along with looking at as many images of particular street corners in towns, etc to see HOW it looked as possible.
10. The final details. Put up fences, trees in areas where they grow in non-Woods terrain (around houses, etc)
11. 3D view. Look for problems. You should be doing this quite often during the entire process to be sure you are on track with making it look "right".

As you proceed, these may be helpful sources in no particular order (I'll add more when I'm at my Home Base).
 
1. Using GE eye level on the ground also helps give a basic understanding of LoS and the "lay of the land". You have this one wrapped up.
 
2. Combatintman found this topo tool, if you missed it in the other thread:
http://contourmapcreator.urgr8.ch/
This tool is a huge help (especially for complex terrain), but should be used with any other sources you can find
 
3. I subscribe yearly to the NCAP, which houses a massive trove of aerial images made by RAF Reconnaissance flights. This is my "go to" for period overlays (sometimes overlaid with GE images, and maybe other sources like period maps- using as many sources as possible). Good for Overlays. Link:
https://ncap.org.uk/
 
4. Perry-Castaneda Map Library- a decent source for a wide range of map regions. Just be sure to check the scale is useful (see here for explanation of what these look like: http://www.compassdude.com/map-scales.php). Around 1:24,000 is my general target size. Lower is great, but so rare for that one region you seek that you may as well see a unicorn later in the day.
 
5. Mapster- A good source for maps of Poland, eastern Germany and NW Russia/SU (and maybe a little Baltic areas as well, can't recall)
http://igrek.amzp.pl/mapindex.php?cat=GR100
 
6. Geoportail- Maps of France. There may be a historical overlay baked in to the site, haven't used it since CMMG, though!
https://www.geoportail.gouv.fr/carte/
 
7. BYU Library- 1:25,000 Maps of Germany
https://lib.byu.edu/collections/german-maps/
 
8. Old Maps Online- Just like the title says. More general, but you can find some fill-in-the-gaps stuff here:
http://www.oldmapsonline.org/
 
9. My personal favorite- Old Hapsburg era to ww2 era maps with a sychronized view (for comparing two maps!):
https://mapire.eu/en/synchron/europe-19century-secondsurvey/?bbox=-1772192.4014695496%2C4866535.559953655%2C4440609.257549576%2C7801717.446104423&layers=osm%2C158%2C164&right-layers=osm
 
10. A good source for a variety of WW2 aerial imagery and maps:
http://www.wwii-photos-maps.com/new_home_page_-_071216_002.htm
 
More than a few dead links as well, sadly. I see the great source a few of us used for MG for Dutch maps is now dead (http://erfgoedenlocatie.nl/resultaten/watwaswaar/#cC-Om-6-1-1v-1), but they have transferred the collection (instructions in Dutch, needs to be investigated further now..).
 

Well, in my experience in development, it's important to focus on critical and, yet, attainable goals. Much like how any offensive/defensive has to focus its resources and efforts at the "right" points. So it is with games.
Could CM have much-requested features like dynamic campaigns, co-op and MULTI-player? Hypothetically, sure. Yet, in development -- everything is a trade-off. When you focus on one aspect, others become weaker. This is just as true for small developers, as well as large developers. I would even argue that this chaotic changing of focus, in order to meet forecasted demand, is why the video game industry is in the state it is now.
I think the most shining, and current, example would be this Battle Royale phase that plagued this year's E3. There are plenty of developers of big game franchises that bit the dust after they lost focus of what made them popular and profitable. Great many of these failures also came from putting too much money into titles that catered to a specific audience.
BFC knows what CM does, and knows their audience intimately. They know their focus and how many resources are required. I respect that -- it's rare, these days. All I am saying is be careful what you wish for. You could get Mass Effect: Andromeda.

Making historical maps is somewhat challenging, but fun. Fictional is another way to go when you are figuring out how to make certain areas look good and offer game play opportunities (a gentle rise in a hill, etc). I do those (generally ending up as QB maps) when I get tired of doing the historical stuff.
Welcome to the new world of "I need this book for research". Which becomes piles of interesting, wildly specific books.
My own particular order of research (project dependent)- contemporary maps and photographs, personal experience (you have walked the area personally), then to personal contemporary accounts from books, modern day Google Earth and this tool to fill in any mysteries.
I do mainly WW2 stuff, so obviously if the battle is in CMBS, there may be more actual footage of the battle unfolding (chaotic and first person-based as that may be, it can still be informative as to the state of the terrain). This is also true for WW2 stuff, but the chance of finding footage actually from the battle is far more slim.
If I could give myself some advice when I first started with the Editor, I'd say approach things in the following order (will differ, depending on person!):
 
1. Research, accumulate as much information and imagery as possible to understand the action depicted, and the terrain itself.
2. Figure out the map sizing based upon one of the images (from a source like a map or an aerial image). What the purpose of the map is will help determine this as far as sizing. I generally do huge maps, but if you are doing something small/medium, consider adding some "extra" for maneuver if appropriate.
3. Create Editor Overlay(s). I might end up with 5-6 for one map, but that is serious overkill for most projects. I use Photoshop, and will have Layers for every source. Generally any period maps (in their own Layers), any aerial imagery from the period depicted, and then a GE image for any areas that may need clarification. Some of these I mark up if needed for ease of organization. One note- I may consider rotating the map to keep roadways at the correct angle for CM roads. That will save some serious agony later.
4. Create the blank map, sized to the area depicted.
5. Sketch the roads out. I adapt slightly to avoid "see-saw" roads and fences, etc. This is my one general concession to the Game. Engine. As long as you don't deviate too far, things should line up pretty closely with any map you have. If you rotated themap slightly, the road issue should be as minimized as possible given the tools.
6. Next I do heights based upon the heightmap Editor Overlay. I adjust slightly around roads, and often raise them in rural areas by 1. Railways get a bump of 2 sometimes if shown as "raised" on the source map. Check 3D view often, and adjust as needed. This can be time-consuming, but the work pays off if you put it in.
7. Sketch out any fields, forests, swamps or other large swaths of terrain. I have started using one tile of "Dirt" around fields. It seems to look realistic, and also allows me to sketch the fields out, then fill them in and plan it out a bit beforehand. This where you have to start mixing the historical with the creative stuff a bit. The fun stuff.
8. Trees in forests. I use a large mix, depending on the region. Look at GE Street View, and just observe nature to see how a forest grows. Generally smaller scrub, then the larger stuff. But some pine forests start more abruptly. I'm lucky to know a few forestry people, so I ask them weird questions based upon regional growth from time to time. You may find yourself on some obscure Estonian forestry website before you know it.
I only do the areas that I have sketched out with Light Woods or Heavy Woods. Don't feel you have to fill in EVERY tile with a tree. I often mix in tree-less tiles in forested areas with Dirt, Tall Yellow Grass and Red Rocky Ground (and others as needed based upon look and region)
9. Start dropping houses. Google Earth Street View and contemporary images will be helpful here. For CMFB, I think I traveled Stavelot, Noville and the other maps that I am forgetting now in Street View a million times. Along with looking at as many images of particular street corners in towns, etc to see HOW it looked as possible.
10. The final details. Put up fences, trees in areas where they grow in non-Woods terrain (around houses, etc)
11. 3D view. Look for problems. You should be doing this quite often during the entire process to be sure you are on track with making it look "right".

As you proceed, these may be helpful sources in no particular order (I'll add more when I'm at my Home Base).
 
1. Using GE eye level on the ground also helps give a basic understanding of LoS and the "lay of the land". You have this one wrapped up.
 
2. Combatintman found this topo tool, if you missed it in the other thread:
http://contourmapcreator.urgr8.ch/
This tool is a huge help (especially for complex terrain), but should be used with any other sources you can find
 
3. I subscribe yearly to the NCAP, which houses a massive trove of aerial images made by RAF Reconnaissance flights. This is my "go to" for period overlays (sometimes overlaid with GE images, and maybe other sources like period maps- using as many sources as possible). Good for Overlays. Link:
https://ncap.org.uk/
 
4. Perry-Castaneda Map Library- a decent source for a wide range of map regions. Just be sure to check the scale is useful (see here for explanation of what these look like: http://www.compassdude.com/map-scales.php). Around 1:24,000 is my general target size. Lower is great, but so rare for that one region you seek that you may as well see a unicorn later in the day.
 
5. Mapster- A good source for maps of Poland, eastern Germany and NW Russia/SU (and maybe a little Baltic areas as well, can't recall)
http://igrek.amzp.pl/mapindex.php?cat=GR100
 
6. Geoportail- Maps of France. There may be a historical overlay baked in to the site, haven't used it since CMMG, though!
https://www.geoportail.gouv.fr/carte/
 
7. BYU Library- 1:25,000 Maps of Germany
https://lib.byu.edu/collections/german-maps/
 
8. Old Maps Online- Just like the title says. More general, but you can find some fill-in-the-gaps stuff here:
http://www.oldmapsonline.org/
 
9. My personal favorite- Old Hapsburg era to ww2 era maps with a sychronized view (for comparing two maps!):
https://mapire.eu/en/synchron/europe-19century-secondsurvey/?bbox=-1772192.4014695496%2C4866535.559953655%2C4440609.257549576%2C7801717.446104423&layers=osm%2C158%2C164&right-layers=osm
 
10. A good source for a variety of WW2 aerial imagery and maps:
http://www.wwii-photos-maps.com/new_home_page_-_071216_002.htm
 
More than a few dead links as well, sadly. I see the great source a few of us used for MG for Dutch maps is now dead (http://erfgoedenlocatie.nl/resultaten/watwaswaar/#cC-Om-6-1-1v-1), but they have transferred the collection (instructions in Dutch, needs to be investigated further now..).
 

I had submitted a request in for selecting Mod Tags by individual unit in the Editor in the “Appearance” tab a while back. It’s a big wish list item for me as well. Hopefully it gets implemented at some point.

I'm going to offer my own, un-solicited advice on map making...
Use the light forest tile under trees, fences, hedges, roads, buildings, any sort of man-made "divider" - its represents well the undergrowth that builds up on these less traveled/less maintained areas. Look at pictures of rural fences and such and you'll see shrubbery/grass growing taller then the immediate surrounding foliage It also serves as an eye pleasing way to "break up" large chunks of terrain, especially when you're zoomed out - where most players actually play the game - and the fences start to blend in with the surrounding grass.
Alternate between yellow grass, tall grass, green grass, extra tall grass, etc when building large fields. Breaks up the color tone that looks unnatural when zoomed out. Same goes for dirt - mix in dirt, red dirt, hard dirt etc when building lots for your buildings. These large lots - either grass or dirt, or whatever - should look like a Jackson Pollock painting in the editor. Just splashes of different tiles everywhere.
Dirt footpaths serve as a great way to break up terrain as well - simulates the many different ways people cross fields, and the paths they create. Also works great in residential dirt lots.
Combine different buildings to make a realistic looking residence. I like to use the half tile barn on the end of an independent one story house. The half tile barns also look good between fences, and when they form an "L" at a 90 degree angle to a house.
Really pay attention to how homes are setup for the area you are modeling. They are often tighter and more "intimate" then you think. Remember, tiles are 8 meters by 8 meters, which is absolutely huge. I would say most Eastern European residential lots are maybe 3x3 or 4x3 in CM terms. Use street view when you can to see how they look from ground level. Satellite imagery can be deceiving.
When it comes to forests, less is more. I almost never use the two or three tile tree lots. Single trees are enough. In fact, drop your block of trees, and then go back and remove some trees from random tiles. Creates a realistic patchwork effect. Also, use different types of trees in a forest. Trees of the same type in CM are universal in height - no forest is like that in the real word. I like to use Tree D - a fairly short tree - and mix the taller A and C trees into the mix. Creates a more natural forest.
Avoid painting solid lines of height elevation. There is nowhere in this natural world where you have a universal flat area or a universally sloping area (bar maybe a salt bed, I guess..) Purposely leave gaps in your contour lines, and then drop random points in between contours that are one higher or one lower then what the game "calculates" it should be. It will create very pleasing, very natural, undulating terrain. Failing to do this is probably the biggest sin when it comes to map making in CM, in my mind. Elevation is much more difficult in CM2 then it was in CM1, which is why I think people have a hard time with this. But if you take the time to hand craft your elevations, it will pay off big. It makes your map look 100x more realistic.
Don't tie yourself to an overlay! The real world is much more angular then what CM can handle. Have fun with your map - no one will care if this street had 7 houses instead of 5. What matters is the look, and how it plays, Additionally, the height data in Google Earth and other public programs does not have the fidelity to make a realistic map. It's great for a starting point - ie, this town is on a hill - but the nuances of height elevation in real life terrain can not be captured in an overlay. Go for a walk and look for the micro terrain that is out there. Most of it is well within CM's ability to model.

My couple of cents/tuppence worth then ...
As I said earlier, you seem to be tracking pretty well as you are so I wouldn't stress too much about your ability to make maps.
My approach has evolved as most other people's approaches have evolved through experience in the editor and becoming aware of new tools to assist the process but I generally like my mission briefing maps to be Google Earth images or topographical map images. As a result, my default is to try and create a CM map that is compatible with that real world imagery.
Inevitably compromises have to be made and other posters have touched on these issues - things like guessing what a place looked like in 1944 in comparison to what a place looks like now or making judgements about what buildings to put down. You've already heard some great tips about looking for handheld imagery/street view to fill in those gaps but ultimately they are not always going to solve the problem and you also have to contend with the building types in the editor.
A top imagery analyst tip for looking at overhead imagery is to look at the shadows - they will often tell you more about what is going on than the structures themselves and will certainly give you an idea about the relative heights of buildings.
The other imagery analyst trick is to understand what things should look like. When I did my course, we spent time crawling over bridges, power stations, airfields, dockyards etc for this very reason. As an example, it is no good putting down a railway line and chucking a platform next to it and calling the place 'Railway Station' if it doesn't look like one. You've got to consider the size of the village/town that the station is servicing and know train lengths to get the platform lengths right plus a whole bunch of other factors.
Ultimately though, your map is just one piece of your scenario jigsaw - I'd have a scenario in mind before you start the map.
Good luck with it and keep the questions coming.

More than welcome.
This is just my own personal method set- do open maps by Pete, George MC, or the others of us that do a lot of these. We all learn from each other, but you will notice slight differences that make the maps unique and interesting based upon those choices.
I still screw stuff up from time to time on maps and learn from it, wash and repeat. If you like low-risk, high-yield problem solving, it can be a lot of fun. Just look for the signs of the map maker fatigue- claw-like hands, eyes squinted, staring into every patch of woods and wondering how you can better model those forests....The Map Zone.

Making historical maps is somewhat challenging, but fun. Fictional is another way to go when you are figuring out how to make certain areas look good and offer game play opportunities (a gentle rise in a hill, etc). I do those (generally ending up as QB maps) when I get tired of doing the historical stuff.
Welcome to the new world of "I need this book for research". Which becomes piles of interesting, wildly specific books.
My own particular order of research (project dependent)- contemporary maps and photographs, personal experience (you have walked the area personally), then to personal contemporary accounts from books, modern day Google Earth and this tool to fill in any mysteries.
I do mainly WW2 stuff, so obviously if the battle is in CMBS, there may be more actual footage of the battle unfolding (chaotic and first person-based as that may be, it can still be informative as to the state of the terrain). This is also true for WW2 stuff, but the chance of finding footage actually from the battle is far more slim.
If I could give myself some advice when I first started with the Editor, I'd say approach things in the following order (will differ, depending on person!):
 
1. Research, accumulate as much information and imagery as possible to understand the action depicted, and the terrain itself.
2. Figure out the map sizing based upon one of the images (from a source like a map or an aerial image). What the purpose of the map is will help determine this as far as sizing. I generally do huge maps, but if you are doing something small/medium, consider adding some "extra" for maneuver if appropriate.
3. Create Editor Overlay(s). I might end up with 5-6 for one map, but that is serious overkill for most projects. I use Photoshop, and will have Layers for every source. Generally any period maps (in their own Layers), any aerial imagery from the period depicted, and then a GE image for any areas that may need clarification. Some of these I mark up if needed for ease of organization. One note- I may consider rotating the map to keep roadways at the correct angle for CM roads. That will save some serious agony later.
4. Create the blank map, sized to the area depicted.
5. Sketch the roads out. I adapt slightly to avoid "see-saw" roads and fences, etc. This is my one general concession to the Game. Engine. As long as you don't deviate too far, things should line up pretty closely with any map you have. If you rotated themap slightly, the road issue should be as minimized as possible given the tools.
6. Next I do heights based upon the heightmap Editor Overlay. I adjust slightly around roads, and often raise them in rural areas by 1. Railways get a bump of 2 sometimes if shown as "raised" on the source map. Check 3D view often, and adjust as needed. This can be time-consuming, but the work pays off if you put it in.
7. Sketch out any fields, forests, swamps or other large swaths of terrain. I have started using one tile of "Dirt" around fields. It seems to look realistic, and also allows me to sketch the fields out, then fill them in and plan it out a bit beforehand. This where you have to start mixing the historical with the creative stuff a bit. The fun stuff.
8. Trees in forests. I use a large mix, depending on the region. Look at GE Street View, and just observe nature to see how a forest grows. Generally smaller scrub, then the larger stuff. But some pine forests start more abruptly. I'm lucky to know a few forestry people, so I ask them weird questions based upon regional growth from time to time. You may find yourself on some obscure Estonian forestry website before you know it.
I only do the areas that I have sketched out with Light Woods or Heavy Woods. Don't feel you have to fill in EVERY tile with a tree. I often mix in tree-less tiles in forested areas with Dirt, Tall Yellow Grass and Red Rocky Ground (and others as needed based upon look and region)
9. Start dropping houses. Google Earth Street View and contemporary images will be helpful here. For CMFB, I think I traveled Stavelot, Noville and the other maps that I am forgetting now in Street View a million times. Along with looking at as many images of particular street corners in towns, etc to see HOW it looked as possible.
10. The final details. Put up fences, trees in areas where they grow in non-Woods terrain (around houses, etc)
11. 3D view. Look for problems. You should be doing this quite often during the entire process to be sure you are on track with making it look "right".

More than welcome.
This is just my own personal method set- do open maps by Pete, George MC, or the others of us that do a lot of these. We all learn from each other, but you will notice slight differences that make the maps unique and interesting based upon those choices.
I still screw stuff up from time to time on maps and learn from it, wash and repeat. If you like low-risk, high-yield problem solving, it can be a lot of fun. Just look for the signs of the map maker fatigue- claw-like hands, eyes squinted, staring into every patch of woods and wondering how you can better model those forests....The Map Zone.

Making historical maps is somewhat challenging, but fun. Fictional is another way to go when you are figuring out how to make certain areas look good and offer game play opportunities (a gentle rise in a hill, etc). I do those (generally ending up as QB maps) when I get tired of doing the historical stuff.
Welcome to the new world of "I need this book for research". Which becomes piles of interesting, wildly specific books.
My own particular order of research (project dependent)- contemporary maps and photographs, personal experience (you have walked the area personally), then to personal contemporary accounts from books, modern day Google Earth and this tool to fill in any mysteries.
I do mainly WW2 stuff, so obviously if the battle is in CMBS, there may be more actual footage of the battle unfolding (chaotic and first person-based as that may be, it can still be informative as to the state of the terrain). This is also true for WW2 stuff, but the chance of finding footage actually from the battle is far more slim.
If I could give myself some advice when I first started with the Editor, I'd say approach things in the following order (will differ, depending on person!):
 
1. Research, accumulate as much information and imagery as possible to understand the action depicted, and the terrain itself.
2. Figure out the map sizing based upon one of the images (from a source like a map or an aerial image). What the purpose of the map is will help determine this as far as sizing. I generally do huge maps, but if you are doing something small/medium, consider adding some "extra" for maneuver if appropriate.
3. Create Editor Overlay(s). I might end up with 5-6 for one map, but that is serious overkill for most projects. I use Photoshop, and will have Layers for every source. Generally any period maps (in their own Layers), any aerial imagery from the period depicted, and then a GE image for any areas that may need clarification. Some of these I mark up if needed for ease of organization. One note- I may consider rotating the map to keep roadways at the correct angle for CM roads. That will save some serious agony later.
4. Create the blank map, sized to the area depicted.
5. Sketch the roads out. I adapt slightly to avoid "see-saw" roads and fences, etc. This is my one general concession to the Game. Engine. As long as you don't deviate too far, things should line up pretty closely with any map you have. If you rotated themap slightly, the road issue should be as minimized as possible given the tools.
6. Next I do heights based upon the heightmap Editor Overlay. I adjust slightly around roads, and often raise them in rural areas by 1. Railways get a bump of 2 sometimes if shown as "raised" on the source map. Check 3D view often, and adjust as needed. This can be time-consuming, but the work pays off if you put it in.
7. Sketch out any fields, forests, swamps or other large swaths of terrain. I have started using one tile of "Dirt" around fields. It seems to look realistic, and also allows me to sketch the fields out, then fill them in and plan it out a bit beforehand. This where you have to start mixing the historical with the creative stuff a bit. The fun stuff.
8. Trees in forests. I use a large mix, depending on the region. Look at GE Street View, and just observe nature to see how a forest grows. Generally smaller scrub, then the larger stuff. But some pine forests start more abruptly. I'm lucky to know a few forestry people, so I ask them weird questions based upon regional growth from time to time. You may find yourself on some obscure Estonian forestry website before you know it.
I only do the areas that I have sketched out with Light Woods or Heavy Woods. Don't feel you have to fill in EVERY tile with a tree. I often mix in tree-less tiles in forested areas with Dirt, Tall Yellow Grass and Red Rocky Ground (and others as needed based upon look and region)
9. Start dropping houses. Google Earth Street View and contemporary images will be helpful here. For CMFB, I think I traveled Stavelot, Noville and the other maps that I am forgetting now in Street View a million times. Along with looking at as many images of particular street corners in towns, etc to see HOW it looked as possible.
10. The final details. Put up fences, trees in areas where they grow in non-Woods terrain (around houses, etc)
11. 3D view. Look for problems. You should be doing this quite often during the entire process to be sure you are on track with making it look "right".

As you proceed, these may be helpful sources in no particular order (I'll add more when I'm at my Home Base).
 
1. Using GE eye level on the ground also helps give a basic understanding of LoS and the "lay of the land". You have this one wrapped up.
 
2. Combatintman found this topo tool, if you missed it in the other thread:
http://contourmapcreator.urgr8.ch/
This tool is a huge help (especially for complex terrain), but should be used with any other sources you can find
 
3. I subscribe yearly to the NCAP, which houses a massive trove of aerial images made by RAF Reconnaissance flights. This is my "go to" for period overlays (sometimes overlaid with GE images, and maybe other sources like period maps- using as many sources as possible). Good for Overlays. Link:
https://ncap.org.uk/
 
4. Perry-Castaneda Map Library- a decent source for a wide range of map regions. Just be sure to check the scale is useful (see here for explanation of what these look like: http://www.compassdude.com/map-scales.php). Around 1:24,000 is my general target size. Lower is great, but so rare for that one region you seek that you may as well see a unicorn later in the day.
 
5. Mapster- A good source for maps of Poland, eastern Germany and NW Russia/SU (and maybe a little Baltic areas as well, can't recall)
http://igrek.amzp.pl/mapindex.php?cat=GR100
 
6. Geoportail- Maps of France. There may be a historical overlay baked in to the site, haven't used it since CMMG, though!
https://www.geoportail.gouv.fr/carte/
 
7. BYU Library- 1:25,000 Maps of Germany
https://lib.byu.edu/collections/german-maps/
 
8. Old Maps Online- Just like the title says. More general, but you can find some fill-in-the-gaps stuff here:
http://www.oldmapsonline.org/
 
9. My personal favorite- Old Hapsburg era to ww2 era maps with a sychronized view (for comparing two maps!):
https://mapire.eu/en/synchron/europe-19century-secondsurvey/?bbox=-1772192.4014695496%2C4866535.559953655%2C4440609.257549576%2C7801717.446104423&layers=osm%2C158%2C164&right-layers=osm
 
10. A good source for a variety of WW2 aerial imagery and maps:
http://www.wwii-photos-maps.com/new_home_page_-_071216_002.htm
 
More than a few dead links as well, sadly. I see the great source a few of us used for MG for Dutch maps is now dead (http://erfgoedenlocatie.nl/resultaten/watwaswaar/#cC-Om-6-1-1v-1), but they have transferred the collection (instructions in Dutch, needs to be investigated further now..).
 

Making historical maps is somewhat challenging, but fun. Fictional is another way to go when you are figuring out how to make certain areas look good and offer game play opportunities (a gentle rise in a hill, etc). I do those (generally ending up as QB maps) when I get tired of doing the historical stuff.
Welcome to the new world of "I need this book for research". Which becomes piles of interesting, wildly specific books.
My own particular order of research (project dependent)- contemporary maps and photographs, personal experience (you have walked the area personally), then to personal contemporary accounts from books, modern day Google Earth and this tool to fill in any mysteries.
I do mainly WW2 stuff, so obviously if the battle is in CMBS, there may be more actual footage of the battle unfolding (chaotic and first person-based as that may be, it can still be informative as to the state of the terrain). This is also true for WW2 stuff, but the chance of finding footage actually from the battle is far more slim.
If I could give myself some advice when I first started with the Editor, I'd say approach things in the following order (will differ, depending on person!):
 
1. Research, accumulate as much information and imagery as possible to understand the action depicted, and the terrain itself.
2. Figure out the map sizing based upon one of the images (from a source like a map or an aerial image). What the purpose of the map is will help determine this as far as sizing. I generally do huge maps, but if you are doing something small/medium, consider adding some "extra" for maneuver if appropriate.
3. Create Editor Overlay(s). I might end up with 5-6 for one map, but that is serious overkill for most projects. I use Photoshop, and will have Layers for every source. Generally any period maps (in their own Layers), any aerial imagery from the period depicted, and then a GE image for any areas that may need clarification. Some of these I mark up if needed for ease of organization. One note- I may consider rotating the map to keep roadways at the correct angle for CM roads. That will save some serious agony later.
4. Create the blank map, sized to the area depicted.
5. Sketch the roads out. I adapt slightly to avoid "see-saw" roads and fences, etc. This is my one general concession to the Game. Engine. As long as you don't deviate too far, things should line up pretty closely with any map you have. If you rotated themap slightly, the road issue should be as minimized as possible given the tools.
6. Next I do heights based upon the heightmap Editor Overlay. I adjust slightly around roads, and often raise them in rural areas by 1. Railways get a bump of 2 sometimes if shown as "raised" on the source map. Check 3D view often, and adjust as needed. This can be time-consuming, but the work pays off if you put it in.
7. Sketch out any fields, forests, swamps or other large swaths of terrain. I have started using one tile of "Dirt" around fields. It seems to look realistic, and also allows me to sketch the fields out, then fill them in and plan it out a bit beforehand. This where you have to start mixing the historical with the creative stuff a bit. The fun stuff.
8. Trees in forests. I use a large mix, depending on the region. Look at GE Street View, and just observe nature to see how a forest grows. Generally smaller scrub, then the larger stuff. But some pine forests start more abruptly. I'm lucky to know a few forestry people, so I ask them weird questions based upon regional growth from time to time. You may find yourself on some obscure Estonian forestry website before you know it.
I only do the areas that I have sketched out with Light Woods or Heavy Woods. Don't feel you have to fill in EVERY tile with a tree. I often mix in tree-less tiles in forested areas with Dirt, Tall Yellow Grass and Red Rocky Ground (and others as needed based upon look and region)
9. Start dropping houses. Google Earth Street View and contemporary images will be helpful here. For CMFB, I think I traveled Stavelot, Noville and the other maps that I am forgetting now in Street View a million times. Along with looking at as many images of particular street corners in towns, etc to see HOW it looked as possible.
10. The final details. Put up fences, trees in areas where they grow in non-Woods terrain (around houses, etc)
11. 3D view. Look for problems. You should be doing this quite often during the entire process to be sure you are on track with making it look "right".

As you proceed, these may be helpful sources in no particular order (I'll add more when I'm at my Home Base).
 
1. Using GE eye level on the ground also helps give a basic understanding of LoS and the "lay of the land". You have this one wrapped up.
 
2. Combatintman found this topo tool, if you missed it in the other thread:
http://contourmapcreator.urgr8.ch/
This tool is a huge help (especially for complex terrain), but should be used with any other sources you can find
 
3. I subscribe yearly to the NCAP, which houses a massive trove of aerial images made by RAF Reconnaissance flights. This is my "go to" for period overlays (sometimes overlaid with GE images, and maybe other sources like period maps- using as many sources as possible). Good for Overlays. Link:
https://ncap.org.uk/
 
4. Perry-Castaneda Map Library- a decent source for a wide range of map regions. Just be sure to check the scale is useful (see here for explanation of what these look like: http://www.compassdude.com/map-scales.php). Around 1:24,000 is my general target size. Lower is great, but so rare for that one region you seek that you may as well see a unicorn later in the day.
 
5. Mapster- A good source for maps of Poland, eastern Germany and NW Russia/SU (and maybe a little Baltic areas as well, can't recall)
http://igrek.amzp.pl/mapindex.php?cat=GR100
 
6. Geoportail- Maps of France. There may be a historical overlay baked in to the site, haven't used it since CMMG, though!
https://www.geoportail.gouv.fr/carte/
 
7. BYU Library- 1:25,000 Maps of Germany
https://lib.byu.edu/collections/german-maps/
 
8. Old Maps Online- Just like the title says. More general, but you can find some fill-in-the-gaps stuff here:
http://www.oldmapsonline.org/
 
9. My personal favorite- Old Hapsburg era to ww2 era maps with a sychronized view (for comparing two maps!):
https://mapire.eu/en/synchron/europe-19century-secondsurvey/?bbox=-1772192.4014695496%2C4866535.559953655%2C4440609.257549576%2C7801717.446104423&layers=osm%2C158%2C164&right-layers=osm
 
10. A good source for a variety of WW2 aerial imagery and maps:
http://www.wwii-photos-maps.com/new_home_page_-_071216_002.htm
 
More than a few dead links as well, sadly. I see the great source a few of us used for MG for Dutch maps is now dead (http://erfgoedenlocatie.nl/resultaten/watwaswaar/#cC-Om-6-1-1v-1), but they have transferred the collection (instructions in Dutch, needs to be investigated further now..).