Diceman Posted November 4, 2000 Share Posted November 4, 2000 I have a Tamiya PZIII L that is finished except for weathering. The vehicle will definitely need dull-coated but I'm not really sure if if I should dull-coat it before or after the weathering process. I know we have several modelers on this forum, and if you could give me some advise, I'd appreciate it. ------------------ Pair-O-Dice "Once a Diceman, Always a Diceman." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pvt. Ryan Posted November 4, 2000 Share Posted November 4, 2000 When I built models the last step was the dull coat. It seals all the weather effects, especially if you use chalks or dust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus Posted November 4, 2000 Share Posted November 4, 2000 A good "natural" way to make a model weathered looking is to let it sit on a shelf for years and collect dust. But yeah, I'm not a modeler, but I assume a dull coat of paint is the trick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Formerly Babra Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 Pastels tend to give the best weathering effects, though don't underestimate your humble cigarette ash As Pvt. Ryan says, dull coat last. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PzKpfw 1 Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 We used to dull coat it after the base colors were finished then weather it & dull coat it again to seal the job. Regards, John waters ------------------ "We've got the finest tanks in the world. We just love to see the German Royal Tiger come up on the field". Lt.Gen. George S. Patton, Jr. February 1945. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crank_GS Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 I have always finished my models first as they were coming out of the factory (with dull coat). I then went about applying washes, drybrushing, mud/dirt and some pastels. Then I would, as previously mentioned, apply a dull coat to sel it all in. Be aware, though, that applying dull coats over dry brushing and especially pastels will degrade their effect. Best thing to do is try it out. If you do not like it - weather it a little more. Remember, too that you can always go back and weather a little more, but if you over-do it, it is hard to un-weather it. Also, since you are doing armor it is easier: tanks get extremely filthy, not just dirty. Aircraft require a considerably more subtle touch. Post a photo of the finished product. We would like to see it! ------------------ Capt. Byron Crank, US Army Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Formerly Babra Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PzKpfw 1: We used to dull coat it after the base colors were finished then weather it & dull coat it again to seal the job. Regards, John waters <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I think I'll try that on the M113 I'm currently working on and test its effects. Sounds like it might give a good depth look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaSCa Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 If you weather with pastels you could try one of those spray fixatives from an art store. They're supposed to hold them in place without altering the color or texture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diceman Posted November 5, 2000 Author Share Posted November 5, 2000 Thanks for all the replies. I'll especially keep in mind the mud suggestion. I've got an Easy Eight (DML) I'm also working on, and I'll finish her up factory fresh before applying mud to the suspension and lower hull. The PZIII is going to be an Afirka Corps model. I'll definitely try out the pastels in an effort to give it a dusted look. ------------------ Pair-O-Dice "Once a Diceman, Always a Diceman." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaSCa Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 I remember a technique of applying baking soda to wet rust colored paint on mufflers to give them that surface rust appearance. Try it on some spare sprue. It's been sooo long since I built any models and I'd let to get the bug again, but there is a four lane slot car track to finish (or work on,anyway). Too many hobbies. Please post pics. [This message has been edited by CaSCa (edited 11-04-2000).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spook Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 Crank_GS is closest on target here. If you're applying "heavy" weathering like mud streaking and buildup, then sealing with dullcoat afterwards is OK. Also OK to seal is "streak" weathering like rain streaking and fuel/oil spill marks. Some rust-type effect is OK to seal too. BUT---I do NOT recommend for anyone to seal "dust" weathering like as applied with pastels. Sealing pastel dust WILL give a poorer appearance and can cause inadvertant blending/streaking of the dust within the dullcoat layer, as I can relate from personal experience. Of course, this means that the pastel dusting is "non-permanent" and can be worn off by excess handling, but hey, how many people are you going to let handle your models? And you can always "re-dust" later anyway. But an added word of warning---FIRST apply your chosen dullcoat sealer on a test surface before applying to a model, either by brushing on or by airbrush. I've had every imaginable nightmare with lousy dullcoat sealers. Semi-gloss resultant sheen, "white" buildup in areas where the dullcoat pooled up, reaction with the paint, you name it. If you find a good brand or mix of dullcoat, airbrush it if you can. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaSCa Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 Sudden flash of memory. As Ed said you should airbrush your dull coat. At the time I was heavy into modeling it was felt that Testors dull coat was the best, didn't yellow yadda yadda yadda, but it was only available in spray cans. I remember holding the cans upside down to spray the propellant out, then using a church-key opener to puncture the can and pour the lacquer into jars, then airbrushing it. Seems like a long row to hoe now, but it looked good. Wish I still had the models. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diceman Posted November 5, 2000 Author Share Posted November 5, 2000 I'll have to learn how to make a web page, but I'll be glad to share them with you all. I've thrown models together before but these are my first "serious" modeling efforts. Not quite the same as the tanks I threw together over a weekend as a kid. ------------------ Pair-O-Dice "Once a Diceman, Always a Diceman." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maj. Bosco Posted November 6, 2000 Share Posted November 6, 2000 Just wanted to know if Diceman is done with his models. I really want to see those pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diceman Posted December 3, 2000 Author Share Posted December 3, 2000 Update: I finally finish building the DML Easy Eight and started the weathering process. Well there's been an accident. I've been very distracted the last few days due to my father having quadruple heart bypass surgery Friday. Don't worry, he's doing fine to the praise of the God of heaven. I think this disturbing news contributed to the blunder which destroyed the turret on my Easy Eight, and my have also irreparably damaged the hull. I accidently prepped the model for weathering with an acrylic paint thinner instead of an enamel thinner. It's a long story but the end result was that the turret was destroyed, and the hull may or may not be usable. We'll see what happens when I re-varnish it, and attempt to weather it. Damned shame too, I think I did a nice job sandbagging the hull. I've got an Italeri Sherman on order and I'll either cannibalize the turret, or build the entire M4A1 (76) model depending on if I can save the Easy Eight hull. It's going to be a bit longer before those of you interested can see my work. Cheers Eric ------------------ Pair-O-Dice "Once a Diceman, Always a Diceman." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mace Posted December 3, 2000 Share Posted December 3, 2000 Whatever you do, don't forget to allow at least 24 hours to let any paint set. A few years ago I was building DML's BMP1 - finished spraying the base (and final) coat and weathered it with a white spirit/oil paint wash. Well to say the wash attacked the paint was an understatement, and the BMP quickly went under the bed with the other "mistakes" (this is my return to and fix one of these days pile) btw Babs, sell any of that cigarette ash? I don't smoke so I don't have any. Mace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Formerly Babra Posted December 4, 2000 Share Posted December 4, 2000 I'll have the coroner post you one of my lungs when I'm gone. Should be enough in there for a panzer division.... ------------------ I remember it perfectly: The Germans wore grey; you wore blue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mace Posted December 4, 2000 Share Posted December 4, 2000 That's awfully decent of you, Babs! errr, any date on your planned demise? Mace [This message has been edited by Mace (edited 12-03-2000).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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