Joshik

I know HERTSTON was only kidding, but "CM: The Road to Damascus" is actually a pretty good title!

Forgive me - I'm sure this must have been brought up already - ... but how can you focus on Syria without including big tank battles on the Golan Heights against the IDF... Merkavas vs. T-82s?

I pissed him off on purpose so he would growl and show his teeth... Jodl had a similar kitten, except his was white and used a Luger.

what grass mod is that?

JS-2 pix for modding

I've found my first PantherGL mod, and I'd like to repost it on the Combat Mission Mod Database. I've included some new BMPs (side & rear turret number variations), but more importantly, I'm trying a new method of creating a darker bitmap. Over time, many CM players have grown to like a darker, more subdued look to their graphics. I need some help from some of the CMBO mod fans out there: please download my test and play around with it a bit. If the darker version works out, I'll post it along with the lighter one. If not, I'll try a different approach. If possible, can some PC users take a couple of screen shots and post them? I think the Mac tends to generate lighter graphics than the PC, so I have to tinker around a bit to get it right... Panther GL Light & Dark test Thanks for your help!

FYI- The creppy "It Happened Here" features an honest-to-god actual Jagdpanther within the first five minutes of the film. (as well as other assorted German supply trucks, kubelwagens, etc...) Kewl! :cool:

I have reposted my Panther G (late) winter mod at the Combat Mission Mod Database . This is based on an historical photo. NOTE: This mod is designed for CMBO, NOT CMBB! I only posted this here because there are fewer people who still scan the CMBO forum... I'll post my other Panthers as soon as I can get them bundled up nicely.

I have reposted my Panther G (late) winter mod at the Combat Mission Mod Database . This is based on an historical photo. I'll post my other Panthers as soon as I can get them bundled up nicely.

um, is this for both CMBO and CMBB, or just CMBB?

How about the Apple stores? Will I be able to find it there?

Thanks to Limey for sending me some screen shots! Here's what it looks like so far... I didn't realize that the side turret BMP gets stretched, so the numbers and cross get distorted. I created an alternative BMP with no cross or numbers - that may work better. Give this a test, and with your approval, I'll send it to CM Mods. -Joshik ps- thanks again, Limey. The only reason I haven't purchased CMBB is that I really enjoy the Western Front better, and enjoy playing as the Amis (even with their ****e tanks!)...

Hi guys! I've been playing around with Photoshop again... Can one kind soul load up my test mod - it's a mottled camo version of Noobie's King Tiger - and either post some screen shots here, or e-mail them to me? I still don't own CMBB, so I'm doing this blind... If there's interest, I'll send it to the Mod page. Thanks for your help! -Joshik KTiger Test MOD

some pix... courtesy of Johnnymo (thanks!): These are only tests... since I don't currently own CMBB, I have no way of knowing if the colors match from one BMP to another. This was simply a test to see if the colors would look alright on Mr. Noobie's excellent new mod. I made a slightly darker Dunkelgelb, but used the offical Olivegrun (SUPER MODDERS TIP: RAL6003 = R92, G95, B77 - this is the real, absolutely accurate Olivegrun!). My Rotbraun is more Rot than Braun, almost approaching the Red primer color. I'll have to check, but I think I used RAL 8012, or R110, G70, B67... I just read that the Red Primer used through mid 1942 was RAL 8012, after 1942 was RAL 8013, and that the official Rotbraun was RAL 8017. As for Dunkelgelb... you can start fights trying to figure out the true color of Dunkelgelb. It was written down as RAL 7028, but that appears to be inaccurate. I have in my notes an exclaimation point next to RAL 8000 (R 142, G114, B79), so you may want to mess with that one... <sigh> I'll keep working on this one... thanks again for your help! -Joshik

Hi guys! I'm trying an experiment: a few days ago, Mr. Noobie posted a new KingTiger mod, and offered it up to the public for camo'ing or alternative paint jobs. I wanted to try out some techniques I've been working on, but the kicker is, I don't have CMBB, so this is sort of a blind test. Can some kind soul download this test mod, run it in CMBB, and either post or e-mail me some screen shots? If you like the way this is coming out, I'll continue it... if not, I'll stick to CMBO mods... Thanks for your help! Here's the link: KTiger Noobie-JoshCamo TEST

I just posted this at the CM Mod Database . I added options for weathered track links (they look better than plain grey gunmetal), or no track links on the side turret. There is also an option for no rear turret numbers (although I dig the handpainted numbers!)... Enjoy! See what happens when I'm not dating someone?! Maybe I can start working on the Camo'd and Winter King Tigers....

Ah... feels like old times! I'm going to try and get this on the Mod site tomorrow: Thanks for your continued support!

Hi guys... sorry... I've been in hibernation. I was playing around with this. I'll finish this if you guys will actually use it. Or does anyone even play CMBO anymore...

Hi guys... sorry... I've been in hibernation. I was playing around with this. I'll finish this if you guys will actually use it. Or does anyone even play CMBO anymore...

yes, I'm still here... ...working on the damn Panthers and King Tigers and stuff... What's the CM Mod term for "vaporware"? Bah! Damn you, Photoshop! :mad: :mad: :mad: -Joshik

I concur with Andrew TF's comments. Here's my MOD etiquette 2-cents-worth: 4) Source Attribution vs. MOD plagarism MODders have worked their butts off to try and come up with something creative. If you wish to expand on someone's original artwork, please DO THE RIGHT THING and GIVE THE ORIGINAL MODDER HIS/HER DUE CREDIT. It's simple... in your text file, add "based on X's..." or "adapted from X's..." or "inspired by X's..." You get the picture. Because after a while, I can tell when someone has slapped a coat of whitewash over a Bergman Sherman or lifted road wheels from one of Fernando's Panthers. The least you can do is give the proper credit. I prefer an overly strict version of what PawBroon has termed the "Applicationist" style, meaning my mods are mostly derived from photos of 1/35 scale tank models that are found on the web. In my text file, I always try and source the name of the original model-builder. If I can't find that, I list the website where I found the photos (hint for newbies: try www.missing-lynx.com for starters!). If I create a camo scheme that is historically accurate, I will enclose a actual photo of that scheme along with my files. 5) Read-me files All mods should contain "read-me" documentation text files, with the following information: name of mod, date of release, BMP numbers, description of mod, acknowledgements and credits (if based on another MODder's work), notes about special mod variations (unit numbers, symbols, etc.), any noteworthy comments, and your e-mail address for comments (if you want any) Here's an example from one of my mods: ******************************************************* Panther G Late ******************************************************* version 1.1 (first public release) 03June2002 by Josh Singer (Joshik) This mod replaces BMPs 3230-3239 with new graphics for the German PzKfw V ausf. G "Panther", late version. This mod was adapted from photos of models created by Xavier Lena and Gunnar Jansson. These photos can be found on www.missing-lynx.com. Hull numbers can be placed on the rear of the turret if you desire. Different graphic variations can be found on BMP 3237 b-c. BMP 3237a is the standard rear turret graphic, with no numbers. This set has two variations: normal, and darkened, for those who feel the original colors are too light. All comments/constructive criticisms welcome. jtsinger@wizard.net 6) for newbies- please, don't be afraid to contact the authors of your favorite mods. Ask them how they did it. You'll be surprised how much people will be willing to offer their knowledge. I'm still trying to learn how to do this stuff... I have my bag of tricks and techniques that I've figured out, but I'm sure there's someone out there who can do it more quickly and elegantly. I read that Dan "KwazyDog" was knocking off entire mods in an hour or two. It took me about 8 damn months to create my first Panther mod! There's got to be an easier way! Network! Communicate! Learn! (happy holidays!) -Joshik

--A quick lesson on eliminating "pinkies"-- For many new modders, the dreaded pink glow usually shows up around the road wheels of the tank they're trying to mod. Here's what's happening: You have already figured out that there is a "knockout" or "chroma-key" color that is used for "invisible" surfaces of mods (like the space between road wheels). This is an EXACT color of RGB: R-255, G-0, B-255 (a gawd-awful shade of hot pink). If a color is ANYTHING outside of 255,0,255, it will be VISIBLE on the mod. Shades that are off by even one number (254,0,255... 255,1,255, etc.) may look like the same pink, but they're not! You will end up with the dreaded "pinkies". First-time modders usually inadvertently create these "non-pinks" by trying to alter an existing mod: they use their spray-paint to give the road wheels a different color or coat of dust, and in doing so, catch the edges of the über-pink, changing it ever-so-slightly. Remember, the slightest change from 255-0-255 and you're screwed! So how do you preserve your knockouts? If you're altering an existing mod, do this (I'm presuming the existing mod is has proper knockouts): 1) In Photoshop (sorry- I don't know the other paint programs... hopefully they have equivalent tools), select your magic wand tool and set the tolerance to ZERO and turn anti-aliasing OFF. Click on the über-pink sections (using the shift key for multiple selections). You have now selected exactly the pink parts, without grabbing any fuzzy edges. 2) Create a new layer and name it "knockouts". No matter how many layers you end up with, this will always be your very top layer. 3) Making sure you have über-pink selected as your color (255-0-255), fill the selections with this color on your new layer. That's it! Now, you can do whatever you want with your mod, and when you have it the way you want it, add the top layer to preserve all your knockouts. Save this as a raw Photoshop file (so you can modify it later and make adjustments), or select Layer:Flatten image, and save the file as a BMP. If you a creating a mod from scratch, make sure you have über-pink selected, zoom in to the area of interest (400-800 percent), and select the pencil tool. Again, make sure you have it set to ONE pixel. Create a perfect outline around the area you wish to knockout, and when you have defined a solid perimeter with no leaks, you can fill the interior with über-pink. NO FUZZY EDGES. It may look a bit strange when you're zoomed in, but pan back to 100% and it will look just fine. Great! Now you know the tricks.... NO MORE PINKIES! hope this helps! -joshik

To honor Mr. Coburn, I'm reposting the following: THINGS I'VE LEARNED FROM WATCHING "CROSS OF IRON": “He said YES… didn’t he, Kepler… he said YES! Didn’t he, Kepler?!? It is quite amusing to be called an “ehr-row-ik orr-ses aah-sss.” A German officer can have quite a swinging time, especially if he is stationed in the south of France. Russian soldiers under the age of twelve tend to look alike. Germans have the ability to tear through a salad bar, just like they tore through Poland and France. Private Deitz must not have been able to avoid the sunlight. Never, ever, attempt to sodomize a Russian. Steiner isn’t a man… he’s a MYTH. The most battle-hardened German can be brought to a dead standstill with a big, juicy kiss. German moustaches are a bad idea. A favorite tactic of saboteurs was to sneak into German banquets and spike the punch bowl with Acid. Russians are good on the attack, but don’t hire them to guard anything important. “Demarcation” is a poor choice for a password. Germans can handle all sorts of difficult fighting, but they get a bit weirded out watching their officers take a leak. Dirt, combined with natural body oils, renders you waterproof. And stinky. All that you are now, and all that you may become, is entirely dependent on this present company. The Eastern Front is more enjoyable than a naughty German nurse. And finally… Need to know where the Iron Crosses grow? Ask Steiner. MORE THINGS I'VE LEARNED FROM WATCHING "CROSS OF IRON": German regiments were often supported by a company of Kinderzingers, who would inspire the troops with their haunting melodies. Always look both ways before crossing die Straße. German soliders tend to get killed in slow motion. The cure for concussion? A bottle of vodka and a good schtup! After the war, Col. Brandt emigrated to the United States, changed his name, and developed a fondness for underage girls. Shiny, new leather coats don’t stand a chance on the Eastern Front. Gnarly knit caps, however, last forever. By the end of the campaign, Capt. Treblig had better ventilation than most T-34s. You can always find the cutest girls in the hottub. Photos of war atrocities are a good source of cheap entertainment. The Russians can spot cheap footwear a mile away. And finally… The German policy of “don’t ask, don’t tell” didn’t work too well, either.

Try what Panzermartin suggested, but instead of simply converting the BMP to Greyscale, try my technique for cultivating a better B&W image. It's found here: Mods&Modders Basically, you convert the image from RBG to CMYK. Then you delete the C, M, and Y channels (cyan, magenta, and yellow), leaving only K (black). This is a much richer B@W texture. The Mods&Modders page (in the "How To" section) shows the whole procedure. Hope this helps! [ November 19, 2002, 07:02 PM: Message edited by: Joshik ]

Stilletto- re: photo "DSCF0016.JPG" - I always wondered what happened to Alexi Sayle after "The Young Ones" went off the air! -Joshik [ November 05, 2002, 09:27 PM: Message edited by: Joshik ]