GRUMLIN Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 Having tired of the preponderance of Tigers and other Big cats in the german 'autopick' list, I have been trying to buy PIVs and win with them. Limited success so far, some great and some not so great results. Anyone have any tips and tricks for this workhorse? Grum 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denwad Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 be wary, always vigilant, I've had too many Panzer IVs taken out by Greyhounds from the front... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalem Posted March 19, 2005 Share Posted March 19, 2005 In lone posts treat them a little more like you would a Marder and you might have more success. In platoon or greater strength treat them more like Shermans; they are still powerful exploitation assets, and a useful hammer to batter targets into submission, but straight-up tank duels will be costly. -dale 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonC Posted March 20, 2005 Share Posted March 20, 2005 Pz IVs are fine tanks, the equals of Allied models they face. They are admittedly somewhat stronger in CMBB than in CMAK, because the Russian 76 is given lower penetration than the US 75, enough of a difference that the front hull bounces reliably against the former but not the latter. Against the Russians, you prefer to be hull up. Same against westerners when the range is long (the hull works from 1000m onward, about, vs. 75mm). Close against western allies or upgunned Russians (122s etc) down is better. The turret is fast on all the usual models, F2 to H. It slows again for the J, avoid those. The late G has all the extras including skirts, it and the H are the best choices. If you combine these with a reasonable vehicle covered arc (roughly facing toward board center most of the time) you can engage any target very rapidly. You need to, this is a quick-draw fighter. The gun will kill most allied tanks through any aspect. W model Shermans get hard at long range, needing turret hits. There own 75s have the same problem the other way, giving a symmetric duel. But there is a range window to avoid against W75s - 750 to 1000. They can hurt your hull while you can bounce from theirs, in that window. W76s you want to fight close - they still get your hull or turret when you need their turret, so at range they dominate you. Anything under 750m should not give your gun any trouble, though. Even IS-2s die at those ranges. You can improve the effectiveness of the front hull by rotating the tank body to the suspected enemy angle of fire by 20 degrees. This generally won't show the thin side, and 70+ angles to it are OK. This is most helpful against US 75s and such, improving bounce range from the front hull by 100-200m. Against earlier, lighter guns the only other range sensitive issue is avoiding getting too close to armored cars and the like, if you can help it. They won't get through the front hull at any range. Even the turret will be proof against e.g. Russian 45mm. With US 37mm and Brit 2 pdrs, staying beyond 500m is a conservative policy. The MG ammo load is very good compared to assault guns and such. The HE ammo load is likewise useful. They are good anti-infantry tanks because of it. But you do want to stay away from treelines - zooks are dangerous. The skirted models have nothing to fear from Russian ATRs; the unskirted ones are safe from them beyond about 100m or showing front aspect. Allied tank drivers are familiar with all the correct tactics for using a tank with these strengths. The kill typical Allied tanks at least as readily as upgunned Allied TDs kill German vehicles. You want the same approach of stalking, engaging distracted targets, working in pairs that engage either simultaneously, or only the one not currently faced etc. They should have "lairs" - by which I mean dead ground locations from which to sortie when you decide to engage, and to which they return when no immediate target presents itself. This is a good practice with all AFVs but essential with thinner front, quick-draw shooters like these. You don't leave them out in the open to dominate a fire lane like you can with thick front cats. The enemy can find a weapon that will hole them and bring it to the lane, if you stand still like that. Instead, choose a target, come out and engage for 1-2 minutes, then back into cover when the threats are cleared. Have infantry screens provide observation coverage, so they know when to come out. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GRUMLIN Posted March 20, 2005 Author Share Posted March 20, 2005 Useful post JC - thanks 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zimorodok Posted March 21, 2005 Share Posted March 21, 2005 Originally posted by Denwad: be wary, always vigilant, I've had too many Panzer IVs taken out by Greyhounds from the front... Me too, and Stuarts. I learned I was too close to them (i tend to attack/unmask from under 200 m...i seldom miss, but the AI never misses at that range) and was hanging out in the open too long. Those Amis 37mms have a high ROF which makes them almost as dangerous, to a Pz IV, as a Sherman. As mentioned, by everyone, treat the tank as though it was a more fragile unit (marder, nashorn) and keep your range/limit your exposure time. Sneaking up on unsuspecting AFVs, like you would in a Hetzer, also works. Nothing says "Hello!" like 75mm into the engine compartment. zim 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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