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Defending Against the Assault -One Man's Experience


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One of the most difficult military actions to take is to prepare and execute an effective defense against a concerted assault. There is good reason for this: if one had the forces and mobility, then taking an offensive action is usually preferable. Also, no attacker will involve his force in such a costly assault unless he has a noticeable advantage in material. So naturally, when defending, the opponent is bound to be much stronger and more mobile and great pains must be taken to even the score through the usage of force composition and terrain. This article will detail the author's personal experiences as a defender in numerous battles pertaining to the game Combat Mission.

Much has been written and discussed about defense, and how best to handle it, but I will attempt to set aside all theories and real-world examples, and deal, in a down-and-dirty way, with how they directly affect a Combat Mission assault. This article will be split into four sections, each of them equally important in giving a defender a hope, if not a real edge, in winning the battle as the defender. The sections are, in order of occurance: parameters, force selection, deployment, and finally execution.

Also, it is worth noting that this article is written from the perspective of a certain size battle in Combat MIssion, varying from a defending force size of 500 up to an extreme limit of around 2,500 (maybe less). With any larger force, strategies open up that were previously out of the scope of the defender: these include counter-attack groups, multiple lines, mobile defense, and other more "operational" tactics that I believe are out of the scope of a Combat Mission scenario.

Parameters

The first thing you will find when starting a battle in Combat Mission, whether it be a scenario, operation, or a quick battle, is that certain parameters are set. These include the size and scope of the battle (points spent and map size), weather, time of day and year, terrain composition, and length of battle. Each of these is an important factor in determining your actions for the remainder of the battle and close attention should be paid to how they affect the battle. Points spent will be discussed further under "Force Selection" while we will go into Map size under "Deployment" though it bears mention that these items are actually parameters.

Each of these parameters affects both sides equally, but many of them will give an edge to one side or the other. The first, and possibly biggest aspect of weather comes from off-map fire. In clear weather, the opponent has a chance to use fighter-bombers, which can quickly find and negate any strong points the defender may have. In a defense, I always like to see bad weather, as it is my experience that the worse it is, the more difficult an assault is for the attacker.

Another aspect of off-map fire is the usage of artillery. Fog, rain, and snow will all reduce visibility, and thus reduce the overall effectiveness of artillery. Especially at night the effectiveness of artillery is greatly reduced, almost to the point of uselessness. For the Allies, this becomes a serious problem since a mortar is a natural part of each platoon. However, night battles also pose a serious threat to the defender since they must be prepared to face a close assault with little warning of the enemy’s advance. Choosing to fight at night is a serious concern for me, and I usually opt for a dawn/dusk battle. Incidentally, this also bears out in reality, where an assault will more often than not fall at dawn. One of the reasons for this is that it gives the attacker a chance to move up his forces into their deployment zones under the concealment of darkness, but this has no consequence in a Combat Mission battle.

Perhaps the most far-reaching effect of the weather is the state of the ground conditions. The goal of any defense is first to slow, and ultimately to stop the enemy's relentless advance. The ground conditions are one of the few non-weapon features of the battle that can seriously hamper the attacker’s chance for victory.

Snow and mud, and to a lesser extent, damp ground, are the three things to look for when defending. Snow will cause vehicles and infantry to move at a sluggish pace, and mud will also slow, and perhaps even immobilize vehicles. For a novice defender, this should be one of the most important parameters to set. Later on, it might be possible to score a victory with even clear sunny skies, but for all practical purposes, this is nearly impossible.

Besides the time of day, it is also a good idea to pay attention to the date of the battle. Unit availability varies depending on the date, and any intelligence on the enemy you may glean before the battle starts will pay off when the shooting starts. Will it have the Sherman Jumbo? Will there be German SMG squads? These are the things you can learn by knowing the date and what it means unit-wise.

Finally, having dealt with the time and date, we come to the last time-oriented parameter and another important one it is: length of battle. This little bit of data, while generally irrelevant in real-world battles, becomes crucial to the courageous defender. It was mentioned earlier that a defense is really just a delay of the enemy, and in order to win, his delay must last the duration of the battle.

I have never won a defense where I annihilated the attacker. My victories have always been a super-human effort of slowing the enemy at every turn until time runs out. This is most likely how you will win (if you do) and you must work towards making that happen. An assault is a battle of attrition for the defender, and with a deficit of material, you must use every trick in the book to slow the enemy.

As to the battle's duration, while it is still possible to win a battle of any length, your chances are increased dramatically with every minute under 30 the battle is set to last. Many will argue that setting the clock low is unfair, and that a defense should play out as it would in real life: i.e. with plenty of time for the attacker to reconnoiter and revise his line-up.

I disagree. There are many factors involved in an assault, and when the commander of the attack says "Go!" there is no time for dallying. I think a 30 turn assault is plenty of time, and depending on weather and ground conditions, might argue for a turn limit of 25. The defender has much to worry about in this type of scenario, while the attacker, if given a strict time limit, at least has some external problem to face.

I could go into examples of how and why an objective must be assaulted and breached within a certain time frame, but I'm sure our gentle reader is just as capable of finding both theoretical and historical cases. In the end, it is up to the scenario designer, be it an individual or a discussion between two PBEM opponents over their upcoming quick battle. Let me just state that the time allotted for the attacker can be of utmost importance towards the victory and great care should be taken to make the battle fair, or at least "winnable" for the defender.

In a larger battle, nearing the limit of this article's scope, I would suggest battle times of 40-60 turns, but not unless the defending force is over 3,000 points strong. It is my experience that at the 3,000 point range many more options become available to the defender, and while they are still the underdogs an extended time for the battle will give both the attacker AND the defender more possibilities.

Also, it is important to note that when setting up a quick battle, some parameters as to the make up of the terrain, including map size, are available. These options will be fully discussed in the "Deployment" section as they apply, though they are, strictly speaking, parameters that can be set and adjusted.

In recap, when a battle is designed or set-up, the parameters must be thoroughly thought out to insure the proper force and tactics to use in the forthcoming battle. These are: the weather and ground conditions; the date and time of day; the size and duration of the battle.

Force Selection

Possibly the most difficult preliminary step to defending, choosing the right force should be a thought intensive process and should be taken with the greatest care. Bad choices now will cripple your chances at victory. One of the problems with choosing your force is that you have not yet seen the map. You have some vague idea of what to expect, based on the parameters, but whether or not these features will translate into a map that is easily defensible is another story, one based on luck and luck alone.

We do not like to leave the fate of our armies to luck, so our choices in a defensive battle must reflect a general suitability for any circumstance. It would be easy enough to limit your force to 10 howitzers and an infantry platoon, and on a certain map this might do the trick (though I doubt it) but it is not a good "all-purpose" defensive force, and that is what is needed in these battles.

First off, your force should be a good blend of combined arms, in this case, it should be able to defend successfully against both infantry and armour, while still being able to survive a fierce artillery barrage.

Points will decide what you buy, but they can all be grouped into the following roles: anti-armour and anti-infantry. Many units have capabilities to fill both roles and these are especially valuable to the defender, who must be expected to meet any opposition, be it infantry-heavy or armour-heavy.

First, let us look at the infantry's place on the defending battlefield. His job must be to pin encroaching infantry with harassing fire, form a line which is impenetrable, guard sensitive heavy weapons against close assault, stage ambushes to unexpected enemies, and finally to "hold the line" at all cost. The fate of your battle WILL hinge on your infantry's ability to meet these demands, and care must be made to have enough infantry to fill the line.

I would usually spend between a third and half my allotted points on infantry. For quality, I would hesitate to spend extra for veteran troops -- there is already a great numerical divide between forces, why make it worse?

Remember that in the end, when the tanks are all smoking and the guns barrels are pointed at the ground, it will be the infantry that holds the line against whatever the assaulting enemy has left. It is good to buy infantry in companies, as HQ units are especially useful. It is also good to buy two sets of infantry – one small set to be used for ambushing and any other short-range attack, while your main body might be more useful for firing at a distance.

Consider this: In a 1,000 point German defense, I might buy a rifle company and two SMG platoons. This is pretty close to half my points. The Rifle Company will be my main body, while I will use the two SMG platoons for any dirty work that needs to be done.

There is a big debate about what armour is useful in a defense. A lot can be said for the heavy tank’s ability to “overwatch” the battlefield. Much too can be said on behalf of a “mobile defense”.

I am of the opinion that in a set-piece battle, which a defense is, armour is of limited value. You pay a heavy price for a unit that will not move very much, will draw fire from an assuredly greater enemy, and all too often will be destroyed before they’ve paid for themselves, much less taken the toll that is required for a victory. If I do get armour, it will usually consist of a tank destroyer and an infantry tank. The M10 and the StuG are perfect examples: cheap (which is VERY important in a defense) and they pack a punch for their purposes.

Support. This is the bread and butter of your defense, and often when I am picking my units, I will start deleting tanks and other units to add to my support units. Generally, I spend all but 10% of whatever points I have left after buying infantry, on support. In the above example, say I spent 558 on infantry, I would now spend around 342 points on support, leaving me 10% left for armour, artillery, and/or vehicles.

This should illustrate how important support units are to a defense. They fall into the category of field guns, machine guns, AA guns, AT weapons, mortars, and flame-throwers and sharpshooters.

Field guns are a good asset to the defender, who, lacking mobility, must let the attacker come to him. This is the perfect set up for a field gun and fullest use should be made of it. I will buy as many guns as possible, usually sticking to a large number of the cheaper ones, with perhaps one expensive AT gun for emergency.

If I feel I have a lot of points left, I might buy an infantry gun, but usually I don’t. I prefer to use AA guns against infantry and light vehicles. When playing the Allies, the .50 cal can rule the battlefield, and setting these up in strategic positions can give a marked advantage. For the Germans, I especially like the 20mm Flak gun. It is small, hard to spot, has a quick traverse, and can fire once every six seconds or so. This gun, awfully cheap, can also take out light vehicles up to the level of armoured car. I would rather buy this as the Germans than use a HMG, and they are about the same price.

NOTE: A word must be said about a few of the units listed above. The HMG does have one advantage in that it can be placed in buildings, which offer a better LOS and better cover in many cases, so it might be a good idea to add a couple HMGs to the mix, at the cost of a couple 20mm’s. Also, one disadvantage of the .50 cal MG is that it doesn’t have a great allotment of ammo. These guns, if given the opportunity to fire at great distance, will often run out of ammo well before the battle has reached its climactic moment.

Continuing, 20mm Quad Flak is a killing machine for infantry. Though it is larger, easier to spot, and has a slower rate of fire, it can really chew into infantry. The Germans have one more asset when defending: the small, powerful Puppchen. These little guns are unbelievably cheap, have a large AT ammo supply, and can take out any allied tank on the battlefield. They have faults to be sure, such as their short range and inaccuracy, but the price makes up for this. If even one of five takes out a tank, they have made up for their expense.

Here is an example. After buying the infantry mentioned above, I might buy two 20mm Quad Flaks, 4 20mm Flaks, and 6 Puppchens. With 558 on infantry (including 2 HMGs) this bring my total up to 894, which is just enough to buy a 81mm mortar and a hetzer or a StuH. Honestly, I would probably drop a few of the Puppchens for a bigger gun, a couple more mortars, or even a tank destroyer, but you get the idea. It is very difficult to use a tank effectively in a static defense, and unless the terrain works in your favor, you are taking a great risk with them

When in a defense, I am not particularly fond of heavy artillery -- but it is still a good idea to get a few mortars. These will help to pin down approaching infantry. If you do decide to buy off-board artillery, make sure you are aware of the fire delay, since you will have to gauge your target by where you ‘think’ he will be in the two or three turns that it takes.

To simulate a counter-attack, or to provide a mobile reserve, and if you are playing a larger battle, buying an infantry tank, a tank destroyer, and a couple of HTs can be a powerful force. You can place an entire platoon, and even a MG or mortar, and use this force to roll out of your flank and into a weak spot of the enemy.

Honestly, it is difficult, in a Combat Mission defense, to purchase units that you plan on keeping hidden for a great part of the battle, but it could prove very valuable. There is no telling what the terrain will look like, and how the battle will fare, so having this mobile force could easily change the course of battle in your favor at the critical moment.

Especially as the Allies, who have a fair number of inexpensive tanks, you would be more apt to buy a mobile reserve. Plus, each of the tanks, and even HTs, have .50 cal MGs. As the Allies, the .50 cal MGs, the platoon mortars, and some armoured reserve, could prove to be a formidable defense.

As the Axis, you have a great number of excellent guns, and these should be utilized to the fullest. Cheap and powerful infantry, without the added cost of any platoon weapons give the Germans the natural edge in any Defense.

It hasn’t yet been covered, but to finish our discussion of force composition, it would be well to discuss the Axis bunkers. Allies, being on a quick advance throughout the last year of the war against an increasingly desperate Germany, have no option for bunkers. Even still, much thought should be put into buying a bunker in a quick battle.

They are very expensive, more so than a tank, and they WILL attract a great deal of fire. Generally, it is a common practice for the attacker, once they have discovered a bunker, to place the brunt of their force into incapacitating it. The usage of Smoke rounds will limit the LOS and the attacker can either rush infantry forward and into its exposed flank, or concentrate all its armour into knocking out the bunker.

They cannot hide, and stick out prominently. Often, they will be visible on the first turn of the battle regardless of how far from the front they are. However, it is true that, with a good LOS and a dangerous ground to cover, the bunker can deal a great amount of damage to the attacker.

With the uncertainty of a quick battle (the mystery map) I would hesitate to buy a bunker, since there is so much else I would like to get for the points, but they do offer some unique advantages. They can cause the enemy to use a great deal of ammo, and redirect a good portion of his force in order to remain out of LOS or to attack the bunker. This all causes the attacker to lose his most valuable resource: time.

Whatever is picked, the time has now come to place them into position on the field of battle. It is time to deploy.

Deployment

Let us begin this great task by laying out just what the defender has as his advantage during a defense. Number one, any units in the open (i.e. not in a building or on a road) will be in a foxhole. This gives a good benefit to cover and concealment. Number two, almost half the map will be under the defenders control which gives them a great deal of latitude while setting up. Number three, the flags will be towards the back of the map, meaning, the attacker will be forced to cross nearly the entire map to achieve his goals.

That’s it. Your opponent gets almost twice as many units as yourself, and you get these three advantages. This alone should tell you (if you haven’t already experienced it!) that you are in for a tough fight. These three things should also form the basis of your deployment. They allow you to set up strong defensive positions from good areas of attack (hopefully) and you have the perfect opportunity to set up kill-zones and ambushes. This will win you the battle if it is done well.

As the defender, one might argue that the game will be won or lost in the deployment phase. Your most important move of the game will be placing your units into their hard points and defensive positions. This is a time consuming process, so when setting up, make sure that you have allowed a good deal of time for this step. I frequently spend over an hour, sometimes two, in this phase, as it is supremely necessary to scour every inch of the map to find the best defensible positions.

However, the excellent positions you find will not be only task. You also have the Herculean duty to get into your opponent’s mind and uncover where he will make his advance. The best position in the world will be of little value if it does not have a chance to inflict damage on the enemy.

Your opponent has two worries: he wants to push into your territory with the least amount of damage to his forces, and he wants to do it in good time. These are the tools you will use to find his avenues of approach. It is along these most likely avenues where you will need to set up your ambushes, where your guns must be trained, and at the end of which your troops must stand fast.

Now then, if you purchased mines, roadblocks, and barbed wire, you will have another tool. These can be used in different ways. The most common usage is as a deterrent. Barbed wire and roadblocks are easily visible, and will not (under normal conditions) damage to your enemy. What they will do is to tell your enemy “This way blocked, find new route!”

Barbed wire can also be used to your advantage in many ways. For instance, if your soldiers are at a tree-line overlooking their zone of control, placing a barbed wire barricade directly in front of their positions will make them unable to be close assaulted. If there is a tree-line within your troops line of site, then placing barbed wire in front of it will make the tree-line difficult to use for the enemy, since they will need to push through the wire to continue their advance. Under no circumstance should wire be placed out in the open, as in between to stands of trees, since the enemy will surely use the cover of the trees regardless of the wire’s presence – rendering the wire useless.

Basically, barbed wire should be used in places where the infantry would ordinarily want to cross. It should force them to use less-suitable terrain for their advance, or push through the wire, and both of these options should be within LOS of your defending units. That will be a killing zone.

Roadblocks are similar to barbed wire, but are made for the blocking of vehicles. Infantry CAN pass through a roadblock, albeit slow, however vehicles cannot. They do not have to be placed in a road, but can be placed anywhere on the map, excluding buildings. These should be positioned where they force the enemy commander to choose the next-best route. Placing them between buildings or close stands of woods will cut off expanses of the map from the enemy. It is not necessary for an AT asset to guard these roadblocks, since the enemy will not bother to move up to it. They are a pure deterrent. However, a well placed MG or other anti-infantry weapon would be well suited to cover any enemy infantry advance through the block.

(Article ends here - sorry, no execution as of yet smile.gif )

Notes:

Many things have changed since I wrote the above in my ongoing search for a better defense. Not least among them is the idea of 'gamey units.' I was very disappointed to find that my two most useful units (20mm and Puppchen) are considered (and rightly so!) to be gamey due to their rarity on the battlefield. I am still a proponent of a few 20mm on the field, since I have never read a first hand account of battle without the author mentioning thier usage on the front lines. It is my unfounded opinion that, although there may not be that many allotted to a unit, they will ALWAYS find their way to the hot-spots.

As for the puppchen, well it is just too rare. I sometimes buy one, but I reallt try to make due with AT guns or panzerschrecks instead.

I have also found a new love for infantry guns. They help soften the blow of losing those 20mms! LOL.

Finally, I have begun to recognize the idea of a "Shock group" of "Fire Brigade" consisting of some motorized elements and at least a platoon of good quality troops - usual SMG troops. The vehicles might be a 250/9 and a 251/9, or perhaps a pair of Stugs, hidden until the crises moment where they are able to flank whatever main thrust the enemy has penetrated into my lines.

I have more ideas: splitting squads, outposts, ambushes, more usage of wire and mines (as outlined in the article) but this post is long enough as it is :D

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