Heading to DC April '09

[mike_the_wino]

Thinking 2nd week in April. Want to spend 2 days doing the monuments, see the Smithsonian, and then........

Planning to spend 7 days in DC and would like some advice on lodging, meals, sights, etc. It will be my first time in DC, outside of layovers at the airport, and I would love any input from the locals.

[Spanish Bombs]

Udvar-Hazy!

[Abbott]

Don't forget your 9, Blood.

[stoat]

Of course there are a heck of a lot of great museums and monuments, and my advice is to walk your way around the city. The Metro works quite well, though was a tad dirty (I was there in '04), but you find interesting things when hoofing it that you might otherwise miss. The FDR memorial, the WWI memorial, and Pershing Park all come to mind, though the first two are near the Tidal Basin.

[John Kettler]

mike_the_wino,

If you tell us what interests you, it's easier to give useful advice. I lived on the outskirts of D.C. (Fairfax Station and Burke) for well over a year and was in D.C. a bunch of times.

The Metro rules, but be advised, and this is very important, there are no toilets in the system. Plan accordingly, and make sure you have money for a snack at some shop with a toilet! This got very exciting while standing on a wind blasted, exposed platform in mid winter. Even so, it's a phenomenal mass transit system and is THE way to go for getting around D.C. April should be lovely, but watch the forecast anyway and bring rain gear. Be very glad you won't be there in the summer, which makes "brutal" inadequate as an adjective, what with scorching heat combined with ~90% relative humidity.

Navigation on the highways, at least before GPS, was a bear. If you miss your ramp, you won't be able to exit for miles. Watch out for special instructions regarding capacity requirements and times. When they say HOV (High Occupancy Vehicle), they mean four or more in said vehicle, a full two seater, or , maybe, a motorcycle. People in my area used to routinely pick up Pentagon people outside of D.C. and take them to the Pentagon Station just to be able to use the HOV lanes during rush hour.

The museums are fantastic, and I don't just mean the Smithsonian (okay, I kind of do). There are only two SS-20s left in the entire world, and the National Air and Space Museum has one, along with the only Pershing II and a stunning camouflaged V-2. "Boring" stuff includes The Spirit of Saint Louis, the Voyager ultra long range plane, an X-15, a Keith Ferris B-17 mural and a Bachelstelge (U-boat launched unpowered tethered recon gyrocopter). The Natural History Museum is fun, but I prefer the Museum of Science and Industry, which has some of the items first exhibited at the Centennial Exhibition. Corliss Steam Engine, anyone? The Mall's awash with art museums, too.

If not suicidally ideated, the Vietnam Memorial is a powerful experience. By powerful, I mean I felt as I walked down the ramp that I was being buried alive. Intense. After that, I hunted up the location there of a family friend who "ate" an SA-2 which came up through the clouds and went down, "no chute" in his F-4D.

Right next door is the wholly different and disturbing Korean War Memorial, with its dog tired GIs clad in greatcoats stumbling onward. Wild when it's foggy,rainy or snowy! You'll have to check the status of the WW II Memorial for yourself, seeing as how I was long gone before it was ever even proposed.

Then there's the National Holocaust Museum, which should extinguish any residual cheeriness you may somehow have held onto.

If your tastes run to THE DA VINCI CODE, National Treasure and similar, are you in for a treat. D.C.'s crawling with that stuff, so much so there's an entire book on it, Ovason's THE SECRET ARCHITECTURE OF OUR NATION'S CAPITAL.

The Capitol, which is magnificent (visit the Rotunda), is surmounted, so help me, with a statue of the goddess of the underworld, Persephone. Never got to the White House, but saw it in the distance. Made it as far as the steps of the Library of Congress, but it was closed the evening I wound up meeting former Soviet KGB agents at an ex-spook gathering across the street. Weird to meet people you once tracked professionally!

The only statue in town of a Confederate general is NOT Marse Robert (visit Arlington National Cemetery, which used to be Lee's home), but Albert Pike, who among other things was a cofounder of the K.K.K. Will let you discover the rest for yourself. If you want to see power exercised by geography, visit the George Washington National Memorial Shrine. You can't miss it. It's that huge Masonic temple that dominates all of D.C. No accident, that! The place is enormous and massive, with many well done and provocative exhibits (do see the Ark of the Covenant replica), not least of which are the rooms devoted to Masonic Presidents (most of our presidents) and famous high level Masons. Speaking of dominating, the Washington Monument was also built by the Masons. It's so much more than an obelisk, being not only full of occult numerology, but symbolizing the, er, generative powers. So, if that's true, and the occult books so inform us, what does that make the Reflecting Pool? You are correct, sir! Another fun one is the brooding Lincoln Memorial, which is liberally decorated with that most unLincoln item, the fasces, as in Fascist. The fasces is a symbol of authority going back to early Rome. It was composed of a bundle of rods, in the center of which was an ax. The meaning was literal. Carried before the Roman censor, it showed those viewing it two things in clearcut form: The official had the power to chastise for lesser offenses (you could be beaten with rods) or the power to kill (decapitation). Doesn't quite go with Mr. "With malice toward none and justice for all," does it? This and related motifs are seeable on federal buildings all over D.C. and are deliberately intended to work on and overawe the viewer. For a presence attack, go stand of the steps of the Supreme Court and see how insignificant and unimportant you feel. It's intended to intimidate. The Treasury and the Fed are the same way. The Jefferson Memorial, though, is a marvel of quiet beauty modeled on the Parthenon and sitting in quiet splendor right on the Potomac. Gorgeous at night!

Strolling by the Potomac is fun, especially when the cherry blossoms bloom, but I think a cruise on the river would be terrific. Mount Vernon is a must visit (now featuring some incredible historical tableaux not there when I was visiting), but probably including a Continental Army reenactor in full kit and a regimental surgeon, complete with very disturbing and interesting colonial period medical gear. You'll be amazed. Near Mount Vernon is a restaurant which serves the kind of fare our forefathers ate, including venison and grouse. Across from Mount Vernon lies Fort Washington, which is quite impressive (an old stone fort, below which are turn of the century coastal defenses intended to stop predation upriver) has quite an array of weird ordnance and a set of Civil War period garrison reenactors.

If Clue's your game and murder's your thing, then visit Fort Marcy Park and compare the ground there with the official stories regarding Vince Foster's body and where it was found. I've done it, and the two aren't even close to meshing.

Georgetown is full of great restaurants I lacked the budget to enjoy when I lived there. Old Town Alexandria has a bar which was a tavern in Washington's time, and he used to eat there. Appropriately, that was where I had my first Sam Adams. The place is a bit of an artist's colony and has lots of galleries, sculpture on exhibit, etc, at the Old Torpedo Factory. Believe it's Alexandria which has a famous, yet affordable, restaurant in which everybody who's anybody has eaten. I sat at a table where Ronald Reagan once ate. Regret I can't supply the name, but it definitely wasn't the Washington, D.C.

power restaurant Sans Souci. The region's famous for its crab, and if you happen to know a senator, you might be able to wangle a visit to the Senate Dining Room for its famous bean soup. If not, local stores have a book with the recipe in it. Speaking of cooking, the recipe books in the region are fantastic, with many historical ones available

in facsimile or reprinted in modern form.

Too bad we're living in a national security state, for before 9/11 I could've sent you to the incredible Pentagon Bookstore. Sadly, that option is long gone--unless you have the clearance to get into the Pentagon. Last I checked, though, Sidney Kramer's Bookstore, in downtown D.C., is open, and it'll shatter your finances effortlessly. If it doesn't, the used bookstores will. People read in that part of the world, and the used bookstores are

full of wonders and delights. Talking when books were books, including stuff Washington read and in the same edition! Doesn't hurt to have all those military people constantly cycling in and out of the area, either.

The D.C. area is spook central, for here and nearby are the headquarters of the alphabet soup soup agencies: CIA, DIA, NSA, FBI, NRO, ONI, etc. Tours MAY be available at some places, such as the FBI HQ, but you'll have to check. Back in my military aerospace days, while attempting to enter the CIA complex at Langley, Virginia for a sanctioned meeting, I had the unusual experience of being talked to by a tree! That place is wired like a pinball game! Memory's hazy on this, but I believe there is an intelligence bookstore and a spy museum which can be visited in D.C. There are so many foreign intelligence agents in D.C., you may very well bump into one. Remember, though, if you think someone's GRU he can't be wearing sunglasses, since this is categorically forbidden as being suspicion raising.

The Civil War is a felt presence in the area, and you'll see how big when you see the shelf space alloted to it in mainstream bookstores. Staggering. Battlefields and historical places, some dating back to the 1600s, abound, including Manassas/First and Second Bull Run, Ford's Theater, Harper's Ferry, Fort McHenry in Baltimore, Maryland, not to mention Williamsburg, Jamestown and Yorktown. All are doable if you have the interest, time and the travel budget. I've been in an observation tower overlooking the surrender field at Yorktown, and it's as though the surrender is still there, a moment frozen in time. Doing so while surrounded by the captured cannon, their muzzles pitted and dinged by the siege bombardment while poking from British embrasures, made it extra special. There's so much history in the area that my landlord in Fairfax Station caught a cop digging for Civil War relics on my landlord's property while his house was being built. You see, his property was smack on the approach route used by the Federal Army marching to Bull Run!

Hope this gives you a sampling of the incredibly rich options open to you!

Regards,

John Kettler

[Bigduke6]

If you're there in April you just might catch the cherry blossoms in bloom around the Tidal Basin. This is a gorgeous walk but go before the tourists, do it early in the day or skip it, it's a madhouse otherwise.

For extra points refer the the flowers as do the DC university students, to wit "chelly brossoms", in respect to the Japanese Emperor that had them planted there.

If you are on the Tidal Basin (which if you visit the Vietnam or Korea memorials you will be practically), walk a bit and go to the Jefferson memorial, and you can read bits of the Declaration of Independance and think about Liberty and Rights of Man. Also in the area is the Lincoln Memorial, with the big guy gazing down, his eyes clearly accusing us present day citizens of screwing up the Republic he worked so hard to save.

If you like zoos the National Zoo is one of the best in the world.

If you want an interesting hike or bike ride, go to Massachusets Avenue and check out embassy row.

Near the National Zoo is a district of the city called Adam's Morgan, which has all sorts of eclectic restaurants like Peruvian and Ethiopian, at prices below Georgetown. (Which isn't sayin much. And it's been a while, restaurants and prices change, do your homework before you go.) I

f you want some exercise you can walk to the zoo from the center via Rock Creek Park which is nice and green and the bikers and joggers are very polite. Takes about an hour.

But overall I second John's advice on going to the Aerospace Museum, if you are a boy and remember even a day of your childhood, this museum is a must. I would go to the Aerospace Museum before any of the memorials, if I was invited to the White House, you name it. I'm not kidding, it is one of the coolest museums on the planet - they have an aircraft carrier bridge in there, they have a giant screen movie called "To Fly" which is amazing, and among the things John left out are a moon rock you can touch, and the original Wright Flyer.

Again, it is best to avoid the crowds, so get there at opening and bail at lunchtime. For best results leave the women to do their shopping, but if you have your kids along it's fantastic.

Also, I'm passing on a rumor maybe, but I'm pretty sure somewhere in the greater DC area is the Aerospace's overflow museum, I forget where, somewhere in Maryland maybe, but you could find out easily enough. Or some one will be along here to clue you in. I hear it is really cool with things like Messerschmidts and Zeros and MiGs, but I've never been there. If you're into airplanes and want to beat the crowds, it might be worth a look.

[bboyle]

Thinking 2nd week in April. Want to spend 2 days doing the monuments, see the Smithsonian, and then........

Planning to spend 7 days in DC and would like some advice on lodging, meals, sights, etc. It will be my first time in DC, outside of layovers at the airport, and I would love any input from the locals.

Mike,

On lodging, get it set now....that's prime time for tourists in DC. I would also suggest staying in town...check out the Jury's Doyle hotels. The one on Dupont Circle serves a solid pint of Guinness. On meals, shoot me a line a couple of weeks before you get here and I'll let you in on what's hot. At the moment, that would be Komi (a bunch of courses with a wine attuned to each), Granville Moore's (over 50 belgian beers plus frites) and Five Guys Burgers for a quick, excellent chow. I would reserve a day or two for the Mall sites. Make sure to get to the FDR memorial and the Lincoln Memorial is best at sunrise and sunset. Also, if you are bringing a chica I would take a look at the Textile Museum. Again, connect with me right before you come and I will let you know the latest and greatest. There are alot of cultural events (Screen on the Green, Shakespeare at the Folger's, drink specials at The Derby) that are fleeting and that you won't have any way to know about unless you talk to a local. You should also stop in at Ben's Chili Bowl to see a real, old school DC institution. You have an even chance of running into the Mayor, Bill Cosby, et cetera there.

Also, don't forget that you can literally just walk into the Rayburn and Cannon office buildings where the Congress does (or does not do) it's work. You can get a glimpse of the sausage factory involved in make law. Walk into your Congressman's office to say hey and you will learn alot about what kind of Rep. you have. Cheers and don't hesitate to email me with any questions you may have.

bboyle

P.S. This city is not remotely as dangerous as it is made out to be....so unless you are hanging out with the residual crackheads you shouldn't have any problems.

[John Kettler]

Bigduke6,

You're thinking of the one at Silver Hills (they say Suitland). Details at link. Many of the exhibits are now at a new annex in Dulles, but the restoration shops are still at the traditional abode. the Dulles thing was in plan stage when I left the area, so I've never seen it or Silver Hills. We should also mention Aberdeen Proving Grounds, if they haven't moved the goodies elsewhere already.

http://aeroweb.brooklyn.cuny.edu/museums/dc/pegf.htm

mike_the_wino,

Forgot to mention the Willard Hotel, which was there during the Civil War and is, accordingly, redolent with history.

Regards,

John Kettler

[mike_the_wino]

Thanks all, great advice.....except bboyle. The Jurys Doyle hotel room rates were $635 to $509 per night?!?!!?? Surely there has to be better rates than that in an area that won't involve elbowing past hookers and crack dealers.

Just got back from Dizzyland, time to let my google-fu go to work.

[John Kettler]

mike_the_wino,

You're welcome! The aforementioned Rock Creek Park should've been on my crime sleuth list, for that's where Chandra Levi's remains were found. As for that hotel, at those prices, maybe both should be included!

Regards,

John Kettler

[bboyle]

Thanks all, great advice.....except bboyle. The Jurys Doyle hotel room rates were $635 to $509 per night?!?!!?? Surely there has to be better rates than that in an area that won't involve elbowing past hookers and crack dealers.

Just got back from Dizzyland, time to let my google-fu go to work.

Wha??? I had my wedding party stay there last year and they paid $165.00 a room! You didn't ask for the Michael Collins Suite, did you?

[mike_the_wino]

And from the muck....it rises again!

Arrive April 5th, depart April 11th. Still waiting to hear back about White House and Capital Tour. Staying in Arlington. The Headmistress made the plans and has been to DC before so I think we are close to public transit.

Now I need places for eating and drinking. Tastes run from pub food to casual but quirky holes in the wall. Sushi to tapas to american cuisine. Any recommendations?

[MeatEtr]

If your into loud music and fast women, check out the 9:30 club. My old stomping ground from the early 90s. Although it's a much bigger venue now and probably a bit different from how I remember it.

[gunnergoz]

If your into loud music and fast women, check out the 9:30 club. My old stomping ground from the early 90s. Although it's a much bigger venue now and probably a bit different from how I remember it.

Be careful of recommendations including the phrase "and probably a bit different from how I remember it."

Last time I went to DC and followed a friend's advice that included almost those exact words, I ended up in a trendy Georgetown bar & grill that was filled cheek to cheek with some very, er, cheeky fellows. I got out without getting my own cheeks pinched, but it was a very close call indeed. Not my cuppa' as they say...and my buddy back home was probably laughing his balls off about it all the while.

[mike_the_wino]

gunnergoz, maybe he meant for said encounter.

Anyone got any serious recommendations?

[bboyle]

gunnergoz, maybe he meant for said encounter.

Anyone got any serious recommendations?

Mike,

My rec's above for food still stand. I would also check out Founding Fathers on 19th and Penn. Ate there tonite, really good organic food...and I mean organic as in pan fried chicken with mac and cheese and waffles.

If you want to check out a great bar, make a reservation at the Gibson. It is on 14th and U Streets. There's no sign (it's really just a non-descript doorway next to a bar called Marvin's) so make sure to write down the address. They take 20 reserved seats a night and don't allow any crowding so line it up ahead of time. The bartenders are outstanding and the drinks are extremely good but the do not serve food. There's a review of it in the NY Times online if you want more detail. It's a throwback to New York's 21 Club without the formalities of dress.

Also check out bar with great food called St. X on 14th and T. The fried green tomato blt is not to be missed.

Finally, there is a small hotel on N between 17th and Connecticut called the Tabard Inn. The restaurant is very, very good and if it's cool there is a wood panelled lounge out of the 19th century and if warm they have a great back patio.

All of the spots I've mentioned are non-touristy and don't have dress codes, obnoxious doormen, et cetera. Enjoy and shoot me a message if you have any questions. Cheers.

[bboyle]

And one more thing...avoid Georgetown like the plague....

[mike_the_wino]

Thanks bboyle, I will give it 'em a spin.

I was a bit curious about Georgetown but with your advice I will skip. How about a quick pass through? Coffee and a croissant?

[bboyle]

Thanks bboyle, I will give it 'em a spin.

I was a bit curious about Georgetown but with your advice I will skip. How about a quick pass through? Coffee and a croissant?

Sure..if the wife is into shopping it's worth a spin. There's an excellent cigar store at Wisconsin and M (Georgetown Tobacco) and actually you could check out Cafe Leopold too. It's an Austrian cafe in Cady's Alley on the west end of Georgetown/M Street). Eggenberg on tap and great schnitzel. Very chic but the food is really excellent.