kohlenklau Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 alright, found some rust brushes and had my first go at rust. ...except for a Revell 1/32nd scale Sturmgeshutz in the early 70's! I STILL HAVE THAT MODEL, BY THE WAY, IN THE ATTIC IN A BOX. with a few of his buddies. A wirbelwind, an M8 and a Grant. oh, and I took the mask.bmp and used the dodge tool on the tie-downs. I am not sure I see much impact... dang, I keep getting the "2 tarps" option. It looks kinda goofy. I did get some c-ration boxes and ammo cans before but didn't grab a screenshot. Haven't seen the stinkin' AT mines in a long while.... In a post a ways back, Professor Von Fuserheimer said: "I would create a transparent layer, add fully opaque whitewash brushing there, and at the same time apply rubber brushes with raindrop, washes, dirt, splatter shapes to simulate paint fading and chipping,..After that you could play with the opacity to your liking to create transparencies,..etc..." hmm, I am not sure I am exactly following what he said, sounds like he tweaks the opacity of the overall layer at the end. I think I slightly dialed down the brush opacity when I did the whitewash. I can still tweak the opacity at the layer level. Or I could go back and do a full 100% opacity whitewash with my brushes. Then at the end he says..to create transparencies...hmmm. I guess that just means you see through the layers and they all mix up super awesomely and everyone loves it? 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 I screwed up and need to be more careful. I should have saved the psd file before I merged down the layers and then again as a BMP afterwards. When I did the rust tests, I did it on a layer above the whitewash. It should mostly be below the whitewash, just a little above the whitewash. I think... I like how it is coming along. I see a few areas to go and fix. the front fenders seem to have a little lip that gets trimmed from one part of the bmp and then reinserted into a different part of the final on screen image. I will figure a way to make that look more natural. funny thing. I had one stain that I picked maybe by accident a reddish color, it looked like some guy got shot right next to my half-track. I dodged it down to a less gruesome tone. note to self: dab some whitewash on those headlights and such... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 You can go into the mod folder and rename the option with the "2 tarps" so it doesn't appear if that's what you want. Looking better and better. I admire your persistence. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuser Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Kohlenklau, I could send you a PSD template with my M3 HT PSD layers clearly visible (modders secrets revealed!!) so you could see what I do, what types of layers I use,...and then add your whitewash or whatever you please... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Erwin, I don't understand what you are saying. I thought the program just randomly grabs external gear in various arrangements? Fuser, Absolutamente "si" con mucho gusto y tequilla. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuser Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Always the same, sigh, Tequila is Mexican, and Spain is way way far away from your border , in fact is in another continent, crossing one of the biggest oceans of the world Instead, we love Olive Oil and Wine (just like those Napa Valley drinkers in sunny California). Ok...I'll send you a link via PM 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 I assumed you were using a mod by Aris. If you are, it is easy to go into the mod folder and rename the option you don't want so that the system ignores it and it is not chosen at all. You can also get into the base game graphics somehow. But, someone else can advise better than I can. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuser Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 BTW, piece of advice, do whatever you like, whitewash, add dirt, change colors and saturatiom..etc, BUT WATCH OUT and DO NOT obscure or hide stock details (bolts, rivets, etc...), so erase whitewash and weathering without mercy to let the details shine again where applicable or the result will be less detailed... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kensal Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 Always the same, sigh, Tequila is Mexican, and Spain is way way far away from your border , in fact is in another continent, crossing one of the biggest oceans of the world Instead, we love Olive Oil and Wine (just like those Napa Valley drinkers in sunny California). Ok...I'll send you a link via PM Lol, Fuser check out the Mexican hats for sale in Barcelona http://www.barcelonaphotoblog.com/2008/09/mexican-hats-in-barcelona.html I go to Barcelona quite regularly as that is where my wife hails from. Every time I go there are British tourists flying back to Luton wearing these hats. Makes me proud..... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted October 30, 2013 Author Share Posted October 30, 2013 Sorry Fuser, a cultural eff up. I actually hate tequilla. I love olive oil and vino tinto. Back in 1999, I was the US Navy 6th Fleet Diving & Salvage Officer and fondly recall when I sat in a bar in Algeciras and had tapas and drank my ass silly planning a salvage response to a US Navy ship that went aground near the Suez Canal. I had one of those old Nokia banana cell phones and 2 batteries, 1 slim and 1 I called "pregnant". I went through a few bottles of wine and both batteries before I had my plan in motion. I later spent a great 6 weeks in Haifa, Israel repairing the ship in drydock. But that is another incredibly great story. Thanks for the advice on preserving details. I am gonna go down and play with the background. I think I see the way you darken certain pixels and bring out the details. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Wow, Fuser. some of your layers are just so incredible. Thanks. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 ok, called in sick. well, not sick, called in and took a personal day. A long weekend! I have Ps open with windows tiled to show Aris's M3 and the one I am working on. I am trying to see what he does to refine the detail. I could ask him, but after the "tequilla scandal" I am gonna lay low. Down on his background layer, I see that some of his rivets look different than the others. It is not a cut and paste job. Some rivets don't look re-touched, so not a blanket layer effect. I think it might be the dodge and burn tools? Let me see if I can duplicate his rivets or at least come close. Burn tool set with a small 4 pixel diameter, range set to shadows and exposure at 25%. image at about 600% zoom. I can do a single left-mouse click on each rivet. And up and along hinges etc. Dodge tool likewise set at 4 pixels, mode set to lighten, 100% strength. I tried to do dodge on the upper shiny part of the rivet. <<that reminds me of watching webwing's youtube modding tutorials. I appreciated his time but for my learning style and desires it was too theoretical or what is a good way to say it, not specific practical get you started stuff, but high level classroom concepts of shadow and the reflection, semi-shadow? I think I already forgot most of what he taught me. If I could produce a youtube tutorial on modding, it would be something like this M3 project.>> The burn seems to work but the dodge seems like nothing is happening. Maybe he has another step in there... here is an in progress shot, still a lot of rivets to go, but I did figure out to just move that rust layer to below the layer with the layer mask. I then duplicated the layer on top of all that and erased most of rust on top of the white wash, but not all. so, vehicle was rusty then white washed and then rust continues or bleeds onto the white wash. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 new signs coming out soon... 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Saturday morning! The whole house is asleep except for me. Got my coffee and I am gonna find these headlight parts and weather them. I will also work on some erasing of the white wash above the rivets and such. Trying to pull more detail out in various ways. Also, I want to fix that little lip on the fenders and from this new angle I see a panel on the battery box that missed getting some white wash. EDIT: OK, I found the headlights and gave them some whitewash. As well as the front face of the battery box. Now on to the rivets and such... OKAY, I spent maybe 5 minutes with a 2 pixel block eraser at various opacity levels dragging along panel edges and such. Some of it was wasted time as now I see it is covered by the external vehicle cargo racks, oh well. Overall I think the effort is bearing fruit. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Here is after I spent some quality time on Daisy's a$$ end. And I think I am slowly developing a critical eye after a few weeks of this and saw that a rusty area I had on the upper wind shield just didn't make sense. so I erased it. Here is the right side again. More massaging of the details with a small eraser at various levels of opacity. And I added some mud to the front edge of the battery box. I gotta go hit the gym. Chicks totally love modders but it don't hurt to have nice abs. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjkerner Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Wow Phil, very Fuser-esque! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 I thought that the rust on the windshield area made perfect sense since that where water will hit and run down during movement. Also, I would expect the front louvered armor covering the engine to be the most dirty/rusty again from dirt hitting it during forward movement. (Ditto to the front of the wheel fenders.) Generally, any hinges or moving part will tend to get rusty as that is where paint gets rubbed off. (Am thinking of ships I have been on as well...) Also, horizontal surfaces will be a bit lighter than vertical surfaces as that is where sun and elements will bleach out color. I love what you have done to the sides and rear. Looks very good. Gets better and better. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Thanks Mark. How are all your projects going? Erwin, Rust is in the eye of the beholder I guess. The armor flap tilted upward and it pivoted on those 3 hinges. I will do the rust in the hinge areas and some running downward. Versus the bigger blob I saw I had before. Then I will "rustify" the radiator louvered area. Plus some stains and drips from maintenance... As a matter of fact, I will cruise the bmp file and try and hit the area just below all the hinges with a "dab o' rust" . I promised myself only 2 or 3 more days on this project and then I call it done and move on to something new. I feel kind of sentimental. Daisy was my first gal. sniffle sniffle 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erwin Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 If you are a beginner, you have already done a superb job. Look at how Aris has now redone all his first version mods for CMBN because he could do them much better than a couple of years ago...! That's a lot of work. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjkerner Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Thanks Mark. How are all your projects going? I haven't done **** in the last 10 days or so...well, I am working on house projects, but as for CM, the only thing I've done is mess around with MG and testing 3 scenarios for Fredrocker. Your project here is fantastic, and gutsy, out in front of everyone and all. Great job! 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 I am definitely a beginner for vehicle modding. I make noob mistakes and probably will reinvent the wheel a few times before I get my act together. I will keep small goals as this progresses. Goal 1: I would love to see at least one other person step off the high dive and try and learn modding alongside me. Don't we need modders? Goal 2: I just want a few US winter vehicles so I can crack out a CMFI GL Bulge 44 scenario before 16 December 1944. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl Grey Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 Looking very good so far. Don't give up now! ;D Still, I'd go with what Erwn suggested: add rust and wear to all rivets and hinges. Easiest way (although time-consuming) is to simply use the Eraser Tool on everything and then handpaint rust streaks. Some things HAVE to be done the hard way, but you get the best results that way. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Sunday morning. Once again coffee in hand I head to the promised land of modding. We're gonna rust Daisy up and finally try and fix her fender lip issue. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted November 3, 2013 Author Share Posted November 3, 2013 Call me a nut. But I think I have found the axis vehicle with an authentic Bulge camo scheme I want to TRY and mod. The so called "disc" camo scheme. Never heard about it until searching for period photos of roadsigns for La Gleize. On a Panther. The only problem is CMFI GL only has Ausf A. I really need Ausf G. I'll still probably do it because I read in one of those "The Road Ahead" threads that CM Bulge might come out in 2015. discussed here: http://www.network54.com/Forum/47207/thread/1104427392/Panther+with+disc+camo+scheme+in+LaGleize+%28pic%29 Well, this goes on the back burner and I get on to Driving Miss Daisy. 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kohlenklau Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 latest in progress. I re-did the fenders to solve the lip issue but gotta re-add the mud splatter. I added some scratches to the white wash. darkened up "daisy" a little bit. back on her buttocks...some mud textures (my first time "placing" the textures...) finally found that vertical closing mechanism on the bmp file and gave it some whitewash 0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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